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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:05 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:37 pm
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Location: North West
Thanks 8)

The fork bung is just a generic protection cap, building a car I save all the ones I get. I guess forks vary somewhat on the ID depending on manufacturer / strength / material etc. If you have a look on moss plastic parts website you will find quite a range :D

WD :D


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 9:52 pm 
Retro Guru
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Location: North West
Shock horror, it's going to get finished soon ... :shock: :lol:

The motivation ? Dad's got a modern MTB, sisters other half has just bought a Kona blast, I have just fitted some Reba's to my brothers bike ... They are all going out riding and I am missing out !

I decided I needed some better rubber with the riding they are doing so I picked up a pair of ralphs and a pair of freds off here.

The plan was a ralph on the front and a fred on the rear. If the fred was crap, I would put the second ralph on the rear and keep the fred's, maybe for the bear valley ...

If anyones got stained logos / oils splattered walls etc - standard APC cleans them up really well :

Image

I spent ages pulling off all the moulding knobs and then blacking the walls, they came up really good :

Image

I fitted both ralph's at weekend (tubeless) but then disaster !

What I thought was a scuff turned out to leak air very quickly :(

Image

Image

Anyhow, the seller has been really good and its being returned for a full refund 8)

I now have some 2.2 X Kings on the way to handle the general off road duties :D Tyres get expensive quite quickly ... :( :lol:

WD :D


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:34 pm 
Retro Guru
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Location: North West
They arrived :D and in very nice condition to :

Image

Image

Lots of spikes to pull off on these though... :lol:

WD :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 7:44 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:37 pm
Posts: 5198
Location: North West
Fitted :

Image

And aligned with the valves ... :oops: :lol:

I have never had Continental or Schwalbe tyres before - not sure if it's just differences in the models I have, but I have to say the Continentals just seem 'nicer' and maybe better quality ? Even the logos on one side compared to the other line up ... :lol: I don't know if that's just my opinion though or if it's typical of other people's to ?

Dura Ace, King Ti, Control Tech Ti :

Image

Image

Anyone know a torque setting for M5 bolt on skewers ? The instructions don't mention anything and I would guess they have quite a narrow window of being to loose or rounding off ? :-(

WD :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 11:35 pm 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:18 pm
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Location: Macbook or iphone
Hurry up and get some full build pics up :lol:
Love your attention to detail!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 7:01 am 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2010 1:33 pm
Posts: 3972
Location: Brighton
Surely a lighter and a steady hand would see off those tyre spikes a lot quicker/easier.....?! :P


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 1:12 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:37 pm
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Location: North West
I know I am late in replying, but it was to late ! I had already spent ages doing this :

Image

:lol:

WD :D


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 1:13 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:37 pm
Posts: 5198
Location: North West
From this :

Image

To this :

Image

By removing the 20mm spacer :

Image

I used these instructions :

http://faqload.com/faqs/bicycle-compone ... vel-spacer

And bought these sockets :

Image

I filed the chamfers off the 24mm socket to give it full engagement with the flat ally head on the forks (to minimise the potential for it to slip) - worked perfect :D

WD :D


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 9:54 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:37 pm
Posts: 5198
Location: North West
Another bit done ... :D

I needed a seatpost shim, wanted a USE one (long) and wanted it to be plastic.

I needed a 25.0 to 27.2 but USE's offering in that size was ally ... :(

25.0 to 27.2 = 1.1 wall thickness.

USE do a plastic shim in 27.2 to 29.4 = 1.1. wall thickness ... :D

I sanded the slot wider so it would clamp down without binding :

Image

And then sanded the top down just to make it fit a bit neater. Clamped in the closed position so I could get a smooth / level edge :

Image

Fits great, blends in well and will almost be hidden under / behind the post clamp :

Image

The gaps about 1mm - before clamping up :

Image

The post is a nice tight, but smooth fit - it easily holds in position without any clamp and with zero play :D

WD :D


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 9:05 pm 
Posh Mark
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Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 2:49 pm
Posts: 5980
Location: As far from the city as you can be ....
Completely redonkulous :shock: 8)

Bonkers attention to detail :P

Love following this.


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