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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2019 5:32 pm 
Retro Guru
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Location: Macclesfield, Cheshire
Just the same but also completely different.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2019 10:51 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2017 8:01 pm
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who re anodised it in the end and how did u finish the frame pre anodising?


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2019 8:50 am 
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Location: Macclesfield, Cheshire
You'd have to ask Danson about the details, but I gather he had Acorn do the anodising so I'm sure they could advise what's what


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2019 9:22 am 
Lincs, East and South Yorks Deputy AEC
Lincs, East and South Yorks Deputy AEC
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Location: GUNNESS NTH LINCS
Nice one buddy, looks great


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2020 10:14 am 
retrobike rider
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Location: A wretched hive of scum and villainy...
Quote:
who re anodised it in the end and how did u finish the frame pre anodising?

It was Acorn Plating who did the anodising job. https://www.acornplating.com/
They were the only company I could find who had the capacity (or willing) to handle something as large as a bike frame, and in red.
There were a few more who could handle clear (Silver) or black, but not colours.
They did a great job, cost around £110 + shipping.

As for prep...Firstly I had to remove any steel parts in the frame.
On this pace that meant the drilling out the bottle bosses (rivnuts) and extracting the steel helicoils in the seat clamp collar and chainsuck plate mounting.

Having found an anodiser, the approach to the surface finish was going to be more critical than if the frame was to be painted.
The anodising around the areas where I welded had had the anodising removed with a careful application of a strong caustic soda solution.
Anodising is not weldable, and, as it is a hard surface, it is difficult to remove mechanically, especially in tight corners such as the BB area.
Attachment:
IMAG3665.jpg
IMAG3665.jpg [ 166.15 KiB | Viewed 841 times ]

I removed the anodising by hand, rather than a general bath, which the anodisers had.
A full bath etch would preferentially corrode the new bare tubes and the exposed aluminium around the welds in preference to the previously anodised areas.
This sort of uneveness of etch would be very obvious in the re-anodising plating.

It is pretty easy to see when the anodising has been removed as the black deposits from the alloying elements are deposited on the surface.
The removal of the anodising can also be inspected with a multi-meter, as anodising tends not to conduct electricity, but the underlying aluminium does.

I cleaned the weld areas with a commercial brightening de-smut solution, which is mostly nitric acid.
This helps to lift the alloying deposits from the surface.
You can see here where the new head tube and areas near the welds, where I used the de-smut prior to welding, are much brighter.
Attachment:
IMAG3711.jpg
IMAG3711.jpg [ 86.24 KiB | Viewed 841 times ]

After welding, the whole frame was placed in the de-smut solution to clean it off.

Finally, I went around the frame and filed off any small burrs or nicks in the material.

All the best,


Last edited by danson67 on Tue Aug 11, 2020 8:54 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 12:08 am 
BoTM | rBoTM | rider
BoTM | rBoTM | rider
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Joined: Wed Jan 17, 2018 8:42 pm
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Location: VCC Member 5558 East Riding of Yorkshire
Just read this through... after spending the morning in Paces back yard (Dalby Forrest) it’s got me thinking.....


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2020 12:36 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:56 pm
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Great story.


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