Welcome to RetroBike!
Congratulations on winning this superb Highpath. They were never designed so that you can put your feet on the ground whilst sitting in the saddle. You will soon get used to this. I sometimes use a dropper seatpost for more technical riding.
Thanks for the correct spoke hole info.
One tip is if you ever fit modern tyres you may also need to fit thicker rim tape, especially if you run the tyres at the low pressures often used with Cleland style bikes. This is because the rim flanges are smaller than on modern rims and so can allow the tyre to slip off the rim. D W-S used electrical tape instead of rim tape as this can be wound around until the correct thickness is obtained. This will also stop the valve from being ripped out due to rim creep at lower pressures.
I don't know where you are based but you may be interested in this years Cleland reunion ride starting from Wendover, Buckinghamshire. http://clelandcycles.wordpress.com/weekend-rides/
Hi Graham, I'm based in Stockport, but can make a journey for special occasions.
I'm not sure of the logic of using a thicker rim tape to compensate for smaller rim flanges. Maybe you mean that a space for the tyre each side of the tape needs to be left for the bead to seat on and a thickness built up with the tape ? Surely a good few layers of electrical tape would be needed to make a difference. If new tapes are needed, this would be my preference after measuring the rim in order to choose the correct width. http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/jante-velox- ... e-prod761/
I'm not much of a low pressure kind of a guy, so I doubt it will be an issue for me.
You'll probably be horrified that I don't much care for mud either ! I will be looking forward to snow though, so that I can put the studded Hakkas to the test.
Graham, (the original owner) passed on a collection of tyres on top of the original non studded Hakkas. Including studded Hakkas and road tyres.
I have a dislike of the Woods valves currently fitted, the valve hole on the rim suits this so I guess I will stick with Woods or Schraeder as I don't like adapters.
I'll now go through the previous pages with my answers.
1. I've bought a pair of the widest SKS black 700C mudguards. I'll be getting mudguard eyes put on the front forks along with the frame refurb to use the standard SKS fittings, but will be using the original DWS rear stays.
2. There's nothing "tired" about the bike. Mechanically it is great, with little wear to the transmission. The bike has seen little use since DWS serviced it when new Egg rings were fitted. Any frame rust is minor and surface only, which will be insignificant after shotblasting. The only rusty thing that wants replacing is the seatpost clamp which is a non issue. I know what's more than surface rust when I see it, and I haven't.
3. If anyone wants the Ever Ready lights, you can find a way to acquire them that does not break Retrobike rules. I have no use for such technology.
4. Owlarchitecture was right to stick out for a higher price than £650 as I was not the only one prepared to pay significantly more. The £4500 original asking price was his right to ask, regardless of how unrealistic it was.
5. It is worth a lot more to me than a tired rusty old Breezer which means very little to me. Highpath is more to me than a name, it is a mark of genius. Yes, it's priceless mate, priceless. Artwork it is. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
6. Rebuilding the wheels is a possibility for me as on close inspection there's a couple of mm thread showing on some of the spokes and I'm not fond of this, but as they've not failed so far, are well built with single butted stainless, then I see no need to rebuild.
7. Previous mention was made of the rim eylets going rusty. They are rusty brown at the moment, but I think the most suitable treatment will be working in a coating of copper grease with a suitable brush, inside and out, rather than trying to rely on painting them, making sure that no contamination goes near the tyre. At least I don't have to worry about the rim braking surface being squeaky clean.
8. If someone can point me towards someone who will do a careful powder coating job for £30 in the Manchester area please do. Last time I entrusted a Bob Jackson frame to a generic powder coater, the powder coat may have been superb and tough. The problem was that the grade of grit used for the shotblasting was way too coarse. This left a very rough surface on the cantilever boss bearing surfaces, the fork crown seat and the BB threads. As you can imagine, these 3 issues were enough to get up my nose as all 3 areas are have precision tolerances. It was an issue I could not have anticipated. You get what you pay for. So I'm expecting at least £70 + braze ons from a cycle specific refinisher such as Atlantic boulevard in Bury.
I've tried not to be too inflammatory here, and hope that people will take it as such (my opinion). I can tell you guys are passionate about your stuff, and so am I.