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 Post subject: Super Tuff
PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 1:22 am 
South East Deputy AEC
South East Deputy AEC
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Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:27 pm
Posts: 4398
Location: Angmering
this be she..

Image

I don't really have any idea how this is going to turn out. As much as i would love to do a full resto, i can't really afford it. maybe when little BobCat turns up and gets big enough, i'll have a proper excuse. in the mean time..

any one know where i can get some cheap bits??


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 11:20 am 
BMX Moderator
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Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 5:24 pm
Posts: 1045
Location: West Sussex / Surrey (UK)
what are you looking for ?

i have stock of Nos in the bag Raleigh Black outer cables - this is what would be on your bike there

pm me for cables

~~~~~~~
here is a run down on other parts you will need :wink:

looks like you also need a set of dia compe brake calipers and levers 1020's in light gold - skyway tuff brake pads

some maxi pedals

new gum wall tires (cheng shin) front 2.25 rear 1.75 comp lll

nylon Raleigh pad set - top tube - cross bar - stem cover

seat post - straight

a decal set

and the gold stuff on the bike which is called Superchrome (it's like a gold plastic coating)

hope this helps

cheers B :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:51 pm 
South East Deputy AEC
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Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:27 pm
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Location: Angmering
erm, all of it bendy!

honestly though, i'm going to have to make this one a cheap one, so no period correct or anything like that.

I'm going to have to pull it apart to find out what needs replacing, and what i can fix/bodge.

All the gold is coming off, will stay chrome for the moment..I'm thinking inner tube, tyres (both knackered) might go with black tyres, i really like the mag build that went black and chrome.

was the original seat post straight? damn, i could've sworn mine was original..guess not!

Only my back u-brake remains and will probably stay like that for the mean time

really not what i want to do at the moment, but all i can do to get it on the road :(


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 1:21 pm 
South East Deputy AEC
South East Deputy AEC
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Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:27 pm
Posts: 4398
Location: Angmering
could someone point me in the direction of some info about servicing some of the things on this machine?

Specifically the hubs at the moment, the noise they make when turning is frightening!

I'm pretty sure I read somewhere it has a one peice crank..is that right?..more info on it would be great too, thanks

**edit**

and another thing i've just remembered, are the pedals a funny size? Couldn't get my big silver alloy ones to fit in the cranks..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 8:50 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 2:45 pm
Posts: 12
There are 2 size peddles mate.

9/16 for 3 piece crank and 1/2" for one piece crank. You have a OPC fitted there.



Surely most of the stuff is there on that bike, you don't need to buy much at all.

Why don't you use the parts you have but give them all a good clean and grease up.
Change the seatpost though, that thing is rank on there.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 9:14 pm 
South East Deputy AEC
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Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:27 pm
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Location: Angmering
thanks Andy, I thought that was the case, been looking at pedals all afternoon.

Yep, completely agree with you about what i've already got. Won't be looking for very much at all, but some things definitely need to be replaced.

The bike is getting completely stripped the next chance i get, but i've no experience with skyway mags and the hubs inside, which is why i was asking about info.

and yes, the seatpost is going...

will get some better pics up tomorrow evening


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 3:10 am 
BMX Moderator
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Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 5:24 pm
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Location: West Sussex / Surrey (UK)
The skyways you have are Alloy hubbed that came with the super tuff's (hence the name and the spoked one was just called a super burner)

the hubs run on a axle - this has bearing in side keep in line buy cone nuts and on the out side of these is a slim nut that locks against the cone nut to keep it in place

these nuts are tightened to a certain point - not too loose that the hub rattles on the axle and not too tight that it doesn't spin - there is a fine line of getting it right - you have to try and get no rattle but a smooth spin but not rubbing or stopping it from spinning

you may need a couple of tools from halfords - one is a pair of slim wrenches - this is so that you can get one wrench onto the cone nut (which has a round side but two cut sides to fit on to, to do up or loosen)
some wrenches will not fit in the inside - but if you can find a old bike tool that came with most bought bike back in the day, it should work

they may be tight on there as it may not have been changed/undone for years

you will need to undo the other slim nut from the cone nut (can be hard) but keep going

then you will need to undo the cone nut - at this point you have to be careful as some of the loose bearing may fall out - if you do this over a old cloth as they can be caught as they may be greasy

count the bearing out as the same number need to go back in

leave one nut set in place on one side as this is a guide when lining back up

clean out all the old gunk and grease - small bit of new grease back in and place the loose bearings in one side and slide the now clean axle with the cone nut and slim nut one side - a bit more grease before pushing up the cone nut to the bearings

now you have to turn over the mag and do the other side - small bit of grease and then the bearings in - the grease will help lock them in place better - then more grease once all are in - cone nut up to the bearings

now you need to gently do up the cone nut till it touches the bearing on both sides - spin the wheel to see if there is any play or too tight

one you feel that it is right then the slim nut goes on to the cone nut - now you have to finely adjust it - tighten the slim nut to the cone nut which you hold in place as not to move - if at the end it has over tightened it all you can undo the slim nut - slacken of the cone nut and start again - this can be a bit fiddly but you can work on it

a well greased wheel with no dirt or gunk will spin very sweetly and make the ride so much better 8)

hope this has helped

failing all that just take it to you local bike shop and pay them to do it :lol:

cheers B :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 3:32 pm 
South East Deputy AEC
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Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:27 pm
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Location: Angmering
you sir, are the man! Thank you Bendy.

couple more things for the moment...whats good for getting the superchrome off? and i've noticed it's missing the locking system for the rear wheel, what is it called and any ideas where i might find another one/two?

ta !


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 10:34 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 5:24 pm
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Location: West Sussex / Surrey (UK)
The superchrome is the gold plastic coating - you will need to take every thing of the frame and forks - bars and use some nitromors on it - this will not harm the chrome

you need to keep kids and pets inside while using this stuff as it can be nasty and wear gloves and glasses as it will make you do the fire dance if you get it on your skin - have a bucket of soapy water to the side if you need to wash it off - and dispose of the stuff left over in a safe way

locking system ? do you mean where the wheel goes round one way and uses the pedals and the other way it runs free - the is called a Freewheel - you may need a bike shop to take this off as the can be a bugger if stuck with years and years of locking on to the hub

cheers B :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 11:03 am 
South East Deputy AEC
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Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:27 pm
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Location: Angmering
I was thinking of a slightly less evil process than nitromors, lol. I'll try elbowgrease for the moment! so much of it is peeling off anyway

as for the locking nut/clamp thing, it's the bit at the end of the chainstays/seatstays that looks like this

Image


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