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 Post subject: Orange cycles road frame
PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 12:42 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2006 12:15 am
Posts: 3348
Location: Up north
Does anyone have any info on the road frames made by Orange(mtb fame)?

I would like to know were they were produced etc :?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 1:05 am 
Section Moderator & South West AEC
Section Moderator & South West AEC
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Joined: Mon Jun 25, 2007 3:33 pm
Posts: 8163
Location: new forest
iirc the formula bikes were hand made but i think the later aluminium bikes were built in the far east, but i'm not sure, i'll ask one of the guys next time i speak to them. the reason i'm not sure is because my dynamo d2 has some mistakes on it! and i don't think these mistakes would have been made on a far east frame but would have been made by a mountain bike company having a go at road bikes!! :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 12:09 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2008 1:34 pm
Posts: 835
Location: North Yorks
I'll see if the stickers on my Dynamo give any clues tonight.

jonnyboy: What mistakes are you referring too? One thing I've noticed with mine is the front mech cable rubs on the chainstay/bb junction so I have to run a plastic sleeve to protect it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 8:25 pm 
Section Moderator & South West AEC
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Joined: Mon Jun 25, 2007 3:33 pm
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Location: new forest
well the seat tube is a 31.8 with a braze on mount that makes the front mech sit to far out (have tried several mechs and doesn't make any difference) this means that the front mech wouldn't get the inside ring properly and when it did it was rubbing in the easier gears. the way i overcame this was spacing out the bb on the drive side, it works fine but basically the mech is in the wrong place. also the rear brake mount is slightly too high which means that the brake pads would hit the tyre even on their lowest point. i solved this by very carefully filing the slots longer in the brakes.

i know it's the frame coz its running a mix of chorus and record and at different times has been built with 8, 9 and 10 speed versions and all the problems were there regardless of how it was built, it's also the same with shimano bits.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:23 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2008 1:34 pm
Posts: 835
Location: North Yorks
hmm.. i've also struggled to set up my front mech. I thought it might be because I'm using a hollowtech 2 bb and a 3spd shifter. Would also explain the cable rubbing.

Don't have the issue with the rear brake though.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 11:50 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:12 pm
Posts: 4439
Location: Barry
What year was the steel frame produced? Any info on where by whom etc? I can only find the Alu one in the Orange archive.


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 Post subject: Brake bridge too high
PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:26 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2006 8:42 pm
Posts: 783
Location: Brighton
The brake bridge being too high might just be an age thing. Bikes from the 7-speed and earlier era had higher brake bridges - to get a modern brake to fit you need to specify long-drop calipers. I have a mid 90's Dynatech that needs a long drop on the rear.

The cable rub thing isn't a fault either - lots of manufacturers just let the cable rub - it's not sharp and it's not under much tension so it won't cut through the frame.


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