if you can , visit the cycle museum in Saint Etienne . they have great examples of weird bikes .
The Musée d'Art et d'Industrie
? I've never been to Saint-Étienne, but I'll be sure to drop in if I ever do.
My local museum here in Paris, the Arts et Métiers has a small collection of evolutionary dead ends - shaft drives and treadle drives. The museum's well worth a visit, but not for its bike collection. It would be good to see a collection that had a better slice of the main stream, as well as the eddies and tributaries.
The bike museum in Cormatin (Saone et Loire) was good for an hour or two's visit, but again it tended toward the weirder end of wonderful. It's shut now, and the bikes are in storage.
It's the Musée du Poilu now:
Calmes dans le demi-jour
Que les branches hautes font,
Pénétrons bien notre amour
De ce silence profond.