Paint match Raleigh Oyster pearl

Hi All,

I'm hoping someone can help me out.

I'm planning to mod my 1984 Raleigh Corsa to accept a modern Campag Veloce 10 groupset.
This includes setting the frame and forks to take modern wheels.
Doing it properly means heat which in turn means a respray.

I'd like to refinish to original spec with pearl Raleigh Oyster paint and original Raleigh and Reynolds decals.

Can anyone help match the original paint Raleigh used back in the mid eighties?
If needs be I can use a modern pearl white but the original was quite distinctive and I've yet to find a modern paint quite like it.

Not sure why it needs heat, where were you planning to apply heat?
Was this 501?

Just make sure the ends are parallel after.

Keith

Yes, it's 501.

I want the mod to be done properly with straight stays and a properly tracked frame.
That means a new longer brake bridge and hence heat.

Re:

I had a similar era 80s Peugeot 103 (similar to 501) with 126mm dropouts and I expected to have to cold set and to repaint but in fact didn't need to.

Suggest you turn the bike upside down and put the wheel in with help of gravity rather than fighting it, I expect you will find it needs nothing more that a slight thumb press to slot the wheel in the dropouts. Obviously check alignment but I think you will be ok.

The only other issue I found was that the highest gear seemed a bit close to the frame when fully back in the dropout but by moving the wheel forwards clearance was restored. Alternatively use a different freewheel/cassette with a bigger first sprocket.

See how you get on before taking expensive action!

HTH Ray

Thanks for the responses.

Will definitely be doing a full dry build before making any drastic changes.

Local custom frame builder reckons it needs heat to do properly, second opinion further afield reckons cold set is OK with DB 501 so I'll build it up first, make sure everything works and see where we stand.

Would still like to find a match for the paint if anyone has any advice.
Either a mix for the paint or a close modern alternative. I can bring the frame to have the paint computer matched but not in the current Covid environment obviously.

Try this site https://encycolorpedia.com/fafbf5

Hello Martin.
Speaking of cold setting;
Have you already looked at "Sheldon 'cold set' Brown" website?
Could be very helpful.
Also invaluable for all aspects of bike technical data and other 'how to do' advice.
Hope this helps.
Robin.

"The future isn't what it used to be,
but then again neither is nostalgia. "

I've cold set 531 frames, it's easy and there is absolutely no need for heat. 501 is the same alloy. You are only adding 2mm on each side, it's a tiny amount ot bend the stays and there is no need to fit a wider bridge.

531Man":2j6qz7ww said:

Have you already looked at "Sheldon 'cold set' Brown" website?
Could be very helpful.

Click to expand...

Yup, an invaluable reference!

I pulled the frame out of storage over the weekend for a proper inspection and the vernier says the current rear spacing is 127.4mm and the alignment is good.

So as most of you already stated, theres' absolutely no need for cold setting or frame modifications. A modern wheel just pops straight in.

It might still get a fresh coat of paint so the search for a close colour match continues.

Thanks for all the responses so far.