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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 7:27 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 9405
Location: Cumbria
The 58 mm isn't the stack height, you need to take off the length of the cups holding it in the frame :). Lightest = alloy = not cheap!


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 7:29 pm 
Devout Dirtbag
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Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2018 3:59 pm
Posts: 114
Midlife wrote:
The 58 mm isn't the stack height, you need to take off the length of the cups holding it in the frame :). Lightest = alloy = not cheap!


Ah thanks for that, it sucks being a newbie :oops: So once I have measured the stack height, I can then look for any other 1" threaded headset offering the same height? Does it have to be identical or can it be a couple of mm each way?


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 7:31 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
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Location: Cumbria
Best to choose the same or a bit smaller (then you can use a spacer). Not sure why you want an expensive lightweight headset for a bike made from heavy steel tubes?


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 7:36 pm 
Devout Dirtbag
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Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2018 3:59 pm
Posts: 114
Lovely, thanks for that :)

I have always wanted a Raleigh Banana since I was a kid. Now I have one I want to actually use it and enjoy it, so it's going to be old plus new in terms of some components, maybe 90% of components actually.

She weighed in @ 12.5kg when I got her in standard trim! So I'm going to need all the weight reduction help I can get if I want to make it up the local 12% hills lol. plus I don't wanna get dropped riding with folks on the latest high tech carbon jobbies either, if I can help it.

If I can get it down to 10kg I'll be well happy.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 8:23 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:10 pm
Posts: 1046
You'd be safer measuring the stack height of your frame/forks, rather than that of the old headset, which might not
be original anyway.
The stack height is simply the difference between the length of the head tube, and the length of the steerer, measured from the seat of the crown race. It is usually somewhere between 30mm and 40mm.


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 8:49 pm 
Devout Dirtbag
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Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2018 3:59 pm
Posts: 114
Thanks for having patients with me guys :oops: slowly but surly I am picking up this new found wisdom and vocabulary, I'll soon start to sound like I know what I am on about :lol:

OK lets get the digital calipers out and get some real figures in...

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So we have 145mm steerer minus 110mm headtube = 35mm stack height?

If that is to be the case then I need a 1" threaded headset with a 35mm stack height?

I then have the headache of how to get a normal size stem and bars (31.8mm?) on the bike. I have seen this quill adapter thing but it looks ugly and sits a todays stem on top of the threaded headset which just doesn't look right and I wanted it slammed, and I guess I cannot use a threadless headset with these forks at least because the steerer only protrudes 35mm out the top of the headtube even before a headset bearing cap goes on which doesn't leave enough steerer for a stem to bolt to, so am I right in thinking if I am using these forks with such a short steerer then I have to go with the threaded headset and adapter should I wish to use a new style stem and bars, or … Maybe a quill stem which accepts 31.8mm clamp for current bars would be another option.

Wow all that gobbledegook and I have even managed to confuse myself :lol:

Based on my newbie knowledge do you guys think that is the best way forward? Threadless 1" headset with 35mm stack, cartridge bearings, 100mm quill stem with 31.8mm clamp.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 9:38 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:10 pm
Posts: 1046
Yeah I reckon you need a 35mm stack 1" threaded headset. Your calipers aren't quite parallel to the headtube in your photo, which would give a distorted reading, but I know what it's like doing three handed photography with two hands.. :)

I'm totally ignorant about threadless headsets and what you are calling 'normal' bars and stems, so I'd better butt out and let someone else answer your questions..


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 9:40 pm 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2009 1:51 pm
Posts: 167
Location: Kingston
You're right, you can't use a threadless headset with those forks. Velo orange do a 31.8 quill stem but it costs about £60.

Why not just buy a normal quill stem and some 26 mm bars? Plenty available, even with double grooves for modern shifters.


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 9:42 pm 
Devout Dirtbag
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Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2018 3:59 pm
Posts: 114
Sounds like a plan cromoman, so finally I am sorted lol :)

Cheers everyone!


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2018 7:05 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Sat May 23, 2015 8:27 pm
Posts: 304
If you're still looking, I might have some solutions.

If you need a 1" Threaded headset, I have a Shimano Exage A450 from a 1988 Raleigh Corsa available. You could then use quill stem and your existing forks.

I also have the forks (powder coated purple) which go with them. They have a long steerer that could be cut down (E. G. The thread removed) for use with a threadless headset & stem if you don't want to use a quill stem. I also have a 1" to 1 1/8 shim to space it out for "modern" stems. You can get a 1" threadless headset from Cane Creek (I got one new off ebay for £20ish)

Pm me if you're interested in any of the above :)


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