Retrobike Forum Index

It is currently Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:12 pm

* Login   * Register * Search  * FAQ



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 15 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 11:35 pm 
Devout Dirtbag
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 5:20 am
Posts: 102
Location: Cheshire
Trying to source a cheap LIQUID "reactant". The type you put in a small bath with your rusty bits. Cover and they come out gleaming 24-48 hours later...

Anyone had any expereince on this, if so what's the best and cheapest for the task.

Thanking you in advance

Sand_Dune


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 11:41 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:03 am
Posts: 249
What parts are they? Are you hoping to preserve any existing coating?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 12:08 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
User avatar

Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:03 pm
Posts: 6220
Location: held captive by baby haggis in a cave in Scotland
I have used Oxalic acid before for removing rust on components and also on my Jack Taylors rear rack.
It will convert remove the rust to bare metal and wont damage paint etc, though as I found if it is rusty under the paint, the it will react with the rust and leave a hollow in the paint. Great for components and I didn't use much at all, just a test run really.
You buy it in powder form and then add it to water. It needs to be used with caution and appropriate PPE as it is harmful stuff. It works by reacting with and removing the iron particles, problem is if you get this on your skin it will remove the iron from your red blood cells :shock:
Good stuff and for a chrome or nickel BMX you just put the whole bike in the bath.
Here is a set of ancient Christophe toe straps and cages that were well beyond it when they went in. This was after a couple of hours, quick rinse of water and allowed to dry in the open air and good to go.

Jamie

Before
ImageDSC_1854 by Jamie Dyer, on Flickr

ImageDSC_1857 by Jamie Dyer, on Flickr

After
ImageDSC_1885 by Jamie Dyer, on Flickr

ImageDSC_1886 by Jamie Dyer, on Flickr


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 7:47 am 
Old School Hero
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2016 11:31 am
Posts: 236
Location: North Kent Coast UK
Where do you get the Oxalic acid from @Jamiedyer? I've used Kurust before which is very effective but is not great with chromed parts as it turns the bare metal black and leaves a purple residue.

One of the pound shops used to do a little tub of rust remover that I've also used which I wonder whether it was Oxalic acid. It was a clear blue liquid that left no residue so was fine to use with chrome but I ran out of that ages ago and haven't been able to get any more.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:06 am 
GOLD | PoTM | Rider | rBOTM
GOLD | PoTM | Rider | rBOTM
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2013 6:26 pm
Posts: 22382
Location: 54 Festive Road Winchcombe GLOUCS Yarp...
Have you tried the tinfoil method?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:20 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
User avatar

Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:03 pm
Posts: 6220
Location: held captive by baby haggis in a cave in Scotland
The Oxalic acid I got was just off of Ebay.
It does go black slightly if you leave it too long and can leave a milky residue but it just rinsed off. It sort of bubbles/oxidates as it works.

Jamie


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:37 am 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:43 am
Posts: 137
Location: Adelaide, Australia
look up Evaporust.
Depends on the item; I use oxalic acid, electrolysis or Evaporust.
For the oxalic acid, I mix up a more dilute mix and allow for it to work over a number of days.

All work well to convert the rust.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:50 am 
Devout Dirtbag
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 5:20 am
Posts: 102
Location: Cheshire
Just components...
fettler wrote:
What parts are they? Are you hoping to preserve any existing coating?


Not bothered about the coating on this occasion.

Jamiedyer wrote:
I have used Oxalic acid before for removing rust on components and also on my Jack Taylors rear rack.
It will convert remove the rust to bare metal and wont damage paint etc


Cheers guys

:-)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 12:34 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:08 am
Posts: 7826
Location: Nth Somerset, UK
The History Man wrote:
Have you tried the tinfoil method?

As PPE?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 12:44 pm 
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2007 10:51 am
Posts: 2621
Location: Camel Land
The History Man wrote:
Have you tried the tinfoil method?


Tin foil & coke or white vinegar.....


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 15 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: alasa, Bartolini, bikenut2010, MatBH5, mattr and 31 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

About Us

Follow Retrobike

Other cool stuff

All content © 2005-2015 Retrobike unless otherwise stated.
Cookies Policy.
bikedeals - the best bike deals in one place
FatCOGS - Fat Chance Owner's Group

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group