Pulling Wheels Out

Hello

I was wondering. On my retro Raleigh bike I am pulling the back wheel out of its drop outs, in medium gears. It has got worst since I got it powdered coated due to welding, but I guess that down to the fact the quick release mechanism is clamping against a shiny surface of the powder coat.

But I was just wondering has anyone else pulled the back wheel out of the drop outs? I usually have the quick release done up really tight as well which some don't recommend.

Never pulled a rear wheel right out, but used to pull one out of alignment when using a lightweight modern QR skewer with single speed freewheel. It usually happened when pulling away at traffic lights. I replaced the skewer with a sturdier old-school steel one, which did need to be done up pretty tight.

The OLN dimension of the axle should match the distance between the inner faces of the dropouts. If it is significantly wider or narrower, the dropouts get forced out of true, resulting in reduced contact (and hence friction) between dropout and locknut.

It can also happen from having an over-long hollow axle- in that case the QR exerts most (or all) of its clamping force on the ends of the axle and very little (or none) on the dropouts themselves.

The thickness of powder coating allows the skewer to move enough to eventually lose its grip when it chaffes off enough of the coating.

The same was happening to me in Dartmoor whilst ascending - eventually had a nightmare and the clamp/handle side actually weakened and snapped whilst I stopped for the umpteenth time again whilst ascending Dartmeet from the East. Fortunately we managed to sort it there and then with a ring spanner in a pocket toolkit and it held for the remainder of the day.

Anyway, the next day I fitted another skewer that I had packed in my spares bag and touch wood I haven't had the same problem since. The skewer in question was a Planet X skewer that came with my wheels.

The spindles in most QR hubs are a designed length for forged up market drop outs not the stamped steel ones check the amount/length of axle outside the lock nut & check it is roughly a 1/16"inch shorter than the drop out thickness to ensure the QR clamps on the Drop out & doesn't bottom out on the axle.

Make sure theres a bit of bare dropout after the axle end otherwise the QR may end up clamping against the axle and not the frame.

Hello All

Thanks for the replies. I know it's been a while. So to summarise the problems could be:

1. Bad QR skewer/Clamp
2. Geometry misaddlinment
3. Paint finish too shiney/not enough rough

I think 2 and 3 are definently a cause. Especially the geomentry, I cold setted the frame to take a longer back wheel hub width which I think has been giving me all sorts of problems.

On QR skewers, the ones with an internal cam (like stock Shimano and Campag) are able to exert a much higher clamping force than the external cam ones where the lever bears on a curved disc (like almost all aftermarket). If you don't use an internal cam skewer you are likely to run into trouble.

When you adjusted the width did you also bend the ends to make them parallel?

Keith

I think when I did adjust the gap we made sure the ends were kept parrallel, I can't remember to well it was many year ago.

I have taken pictures.

The QR is I think Shimano 105 from the 90s maybe.

I think my problem is the paint work is too shiney/slippery.

I was thinking would some stainless steel internal tooth washers work if I clamp them between the frame and the wheel?

Regards

Jon