Tandem rear wheel help

Hi,

as some of you know, I acquired a tandem this year, as a birthday pressie.

I now need some help and advice concerning the rear wheel/hub.

It has always been very difficult to replace, needing me to wedge open the dropouts to, as I have just measured 140mm. It is quite a stretch.

The wheel was a replacement in the 70's as far as I can make out. It has a 7/16" axle (11mm), which suits the dropouts.

I am not happy about the strain on the frame this is causing, and would like to use a narrower hub, one that does not have a drum brake attached.

Does anyone know where I might source one, apart from evilbay? The spoke count seems immaterial, as I will use a new/better rim.

Would using a hub with 3/8" axle cope with the stress of a tandems weight/dynamics?

Cheers for any help offered.......

Dave

How wide are the dropouts on the tandem.

Re:

Hi, wasn't going to take the wheel out tonight, but I guess 130mm or 126mm. It really is a stretch to get the wheel back in :cry:

Dave

Re:

For a new tandem wheel try contacting Ruth at JD Tandems 01943 816101. Or you could get a cycle shop to splay the rear triangle to take your existing wheel.

I may be able to help you here

Hope did tandem hubs a bit back. I've a new pair of Large flange 36h,which i believe its the same axle that the ti glide uses :? and i think ive also got a 130mm in that
I've not fitted a front axle but i think its the same with the rear and a suspension would fit.
Both are Disc versions.

Piccy from web as example. Currently in shell form, im still farting about with them.

You should easily be able to reset the drop outs to 140mm, if it's a decent steel frame, simply by pulling them apart. Take a piece of string and fix it to the left hand dropout, up to the head tube, back around that and down to the right hand dropout. Pull and push the rear end apart and measure the gap between the string and the rear seat tube on both sides. When the gap is equal, the rear triangle will be spaced out equally too. It'll take a bit of trial and error but keep measuring the gap between the dropouts til you hit 140mm.

Re:

We use standard 130mm shimano 105 hubs on ours with no problems . We are 21 stone all up so not heavy and the bike is used for day rides so no heavy gear. I seem to recollect reading somewhere that one of the bike hire companies used the same hubs with no problems.If you are a heavy team and touring then no. I could have had the back end re set but most tandem specific hubs are around 48 hole and since we run 32 without problems I see no reason to add weight.We have had the bike for around ten years now. I build my own wheels and am critical of spoke tensions.When I bought it ( second hand ) it had campag hubs with a screw on block.They used to brake axles hence we went 105. As said you need to consider the full up weight before deciding
Peter

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I have 2 Campagnolo tandem hubs . 1 nos for a screw on freewheel and the other is used for a cassette {8 speed} both are 40 hole & 130 mm . If eirther is of interest to you i will post prices and pictures .

Re:

Bagpuss, that would be good of you. I am screw on block (and skint ) Pm if you would prefer.

I've run for years with a Shimano STX 135mm MTB hub. The key points are:
1 Shimano freehub has the axle supported at the very ends on the wheel bearings, a much better design than a freewheel hub (or anyone else's). Shimano have the design licked down by patents.
2 Hollow QR axle. This holds it in compression from the QR, and stops cracks propagating from the axle threads.