Minor task Raleigh All Steel

Sorry, I posted this in the wrong forum. Seems I have a winter project on my hands

The frame looks rough but actually the grime.on it has protected the pai :| nt quite well. The chain ring has a funky pattern which I would appreciate info on. Also the frame number on the bottom bracket must tell me something!

Anyway, minor task ahead. Don't hold your breath

I even have a killed Brooks saddle (what type?) to practice all.that stuff I said about recovering them.

Very nice, well, that chain wheel (crank) definitely looks like a Rudge to me.

And perhaps, it could use a chain guard.

Rudges actually seem to be quite in demand; I don't know why some of their old bikes are more sought after.

Not long ago, I saw another bike someone had that was moss covered, I had previously, never seen that or noticed it at least, before in my life.

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Do the mudguards, especially rear one, give one a clue as to brand? Why did you say Raleigh? Head badge?

Head badge is Raleigh and the down tube says 'the all steel bicycle'

Oh, looks like it is a rudge chainwheel

https://occhiolungo.wordpress.com/2012/ ... -sprocket/

1) would they have put a Rudge Chainwheel on a raleigh or is it and early replacement

2) How can i trace that frame number?

I'm getting the serial number as 823167, is there a number or letter before "8".

Here are some resources but they don't seem to help much, let me say, as in the first link, sometimes Raleigh 3 speed bikes had the serial number on the seat tube cluster area. This might be the early 1950s Raleighs.

http://www.bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalo ... umbers.jpg

http://www.jaysmarine.com/TH_raleigh_se ... ml#mid60bb



http://www.sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/dating.html

So, some of these serial numbers are for Roadsters like the Raleigh Sport; and some of these are for the road bikes, like, oh, like mine which is a Raleigh Super Tourer.

My serial number starts with "W", per one of the links, that meant the Worksop factory. It is a Road Bike.



The Hub could be of help as well. That is multi-speed, is it not? 3 speed? It has such a cable but I don't see the gear changer.

Another thing, that does appear to be a Raleigh type of fork, the round top of the fork, does it lock with a key? If you don't have the key, that is okay, just whether it has a keyhole.

See, the yellow bike closest has that cylinder, barrel at the top of the fork if that is understandable.



I don't know if other manufacturers made that.

So, at least, maybe this info above gets us into the ball park.

That serial number stumps me a bit; anyone?

I see 823167 oo, but there is that 'z' which seems to sit across it.

will check the hub when i can get in and clean it

Really struggling to get the catteries.out of the crank, done.wd40, what next?

Re:

Many of the more expensive Raleighs had a lock in the fork crown, but also had a special bottom head lug with a locking plate. Most Raleighs just used the cast fork crown as yours. Other raleigh makes used external lock cyclinders as part od the bottom head lug.

Cotter pins, you will need 2 3/8 inch new ones.
I had a long handled device with an adjustable cam for removing and replacing.
Without that my favourite was to use 2 hammers. Keeps ypur fingers out of the way and you don't need to be quite so accurate.
Some say undo the nut a few turns, I always removed it, place light hammer on cotter pin, and rapidly hit it with the other. A light hammer is enough, about 8 ounces.

You may find the fixed bottom bracket cup is too tight, there are ways but need some tool clamped on and more than 12 inches leverage. Also the right hand cup is left hand thread.

I used to buy cotter pins about £1.50 a gross.

Keith