Removing a freewheel with ruined tool slot

fleshtuxedo

Retro Guru
Was trying to remove threaded freewheel (Regina I think) from a hub the other day, using proper tool in a vice, doing everything right I thought. After some progressive heaving, one of the slots gave out and is stripped.

A fairly classic problem. Has anyone got some advice on how I might go about sorting it? The freewheel can die in the process, it's worn out anyway, but I'd like to save the hub and the spokes if possible. The freewheel is a 6 speed with 2 round pin holes on the top lockring. The holes are somewhat obscured by the smallest sprocket.

I have a good set of tools to hand.

Sorry I bet there's good threads already on here about this, trouble is I can't find any...
 
It's fairly barbaric, but I have removed many a freewheel by crushing the sprockets in a vice. As you work your way down you should be able to destroy the sprockets working towards the hub until you are left with material that does not spin which you can clamp in the vice and then unscrew the remains.
 
Would it not be just as easy to undo the lock ring that holds freewheel to the body, remove all bearings and then hold the bit that's left in a vice or with stilsons?
Surely a easier, less ballache of a job than smashing sprockets/cogs?!
 
Leighcal":1xtlrd8a said:
Would it not be just as easy to undo the lock ring that holds freewheel to the body, remove all bearings and then hold the bit that's left in a vice or with stilsons?
Surely a easier, less ballache of a job than smashing sprockets/cogs?!

Yep done this in the past on a Atom, Regina freewheels
 
Re:

Thanks for the answers! I have to say, I like the sound of crushing the sprockets one at a time...

Undoing the locking would be quicker if it's possible though. Would that be normal right hand thread, or left handed? I think I might struggle to get enough purchase on it though, it's well shrouded by smallest cog, and doubtless pretty seized too.

I do like this stuff.
 
No need to crush sprockets, use a pair of chain whips. Regina sprockets screw on. When the smallest one is removed the locking ring can be seen on the face of the block. It should have a couple of dimples that can be used with a punch or similar to unscrew it. I think it is 'normal' threading. If the block is not going to be re-used then the body can be gripped in a vice across the recesses that held the pawls and unscrewed.
 
Job done. Thanks so much for all your replies I ended up using pretty much all of the groupthink.

Clamped big cog in vice and unscrewed 2 smallest cogs with a punch and hammer (couldnt really get to it with a chainwhip)

Undid lockring with a pin spanner (it was left handed thread) and dismantled freewheel.

Clamped freewheel body in the pawl flats and unscrewed from hub.

Unexpected bonus was that I did no damage to the freewheel in the process, so I can now Dremel the gouge in the tool slot back to straight and save that too. I'm pretty pleased as it's an Everest gold one that will maybe work okay once I've regreased and rebuilt it.
 
The key to removing a freewheel is to clamp on the removing tool as tightly as you dare, either hub nuts or skewer.
This pressure greatly assists removal. This applies to regina style freewheels.

Obviously releasing the pressure slightly as the block turns.

When I was a bike repairer (1950/60s) I did not expect to take more than 10 minutes to replace a freewheel block and chain on any bike.

Keith
 
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