2 weeks off work = 1st wheel build project

Actually that's a lie, I built a pair of 40 spoke BMX wheels approx 30 years ago.

Currently I'm on the verge of my first real wheelbuild. I think this is like an itch which crops up every few years and probably won't go away till I scratch it. I've actually bought rims and hubs a number of times in the past and then paid people with proper tools and experience to do the building.

Anyway I'm sure there's tons of info on this site, let alone the internet but I just wanted to put a simple question out there for anyone who's been there and bitten the bullet...

Is building them in the turned upside down bike with just a spoke key and other basic tools really going to produce inferior wheels to using all the expensive proper stuff or should I stop worrying and just get on with it with what I've got?

NB. I'm usually very good at intricate stuff and very patient. Previous BMX wheels were built with a screw driver and pair of pliers (took days to true I remember). Current plans inc. 32spoke 2/3x, open pro rims, old forged hubs.

Re:

Stop worrying and get on with it.

Pencils, rubber bands and a bit of crayon will do you proud.

Just take your time and understand what you are doing.

Also, once you start to tension and true, use the handle of a screw driver to push between the V's of interlacing spokes on a regular basis, this will take the twist out of the spokes.

I have a wheel jig.

It's made out of 3 foot of bent bar, it's got more spring in it than a spring. Cost me 15 quid. Can't dish with it, but you can make a dishing tool out of card (i bought one for a tenner)

I've been building wheels with it for 15 years, the wheels are the same as the ones that used to come off the one in the last shop i was at, which cost about a grand, had its own workbench and took two people to lift.

A turned upside down bike will be fine. The only important tool is the spoke key. But that's only so you don't knacker the nipples.

Re:

i have just recently completed 2 wheel builds.
the front was very straight forward.
the rear was a little more tricky due to the dishing but its not hard.
you just have to be patient.
good luck.

You don't need one of these then?
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/arti ... and-46047/

The one we used to use was the 1950s version of that. Cast iron frame, hand finished steel fittings and DTIs for accuracy and dishing (imperial measurement as well.)

The boss still had the original spoke keys/tool box that came with it.

We just used spokeys and bought the right length spokes!

Rampage":2v802c4p said:

You don't need one of these then?
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/arti ... and-46047/

Click to expand...

I think it's stuff like that which is putting me off trying, dazzled by science or something sums it up.

Thanks for the above comments, feel a bit more confident now and a bit reassured about my lack of equipment. Although I'm sure someone will tell me I need to buy a load of digital gadgets.

Basically I'm either going to use some 28/28 hole DA 7700 hubs I currently have in some GP4 tubular rims and re-build them into clinchers, probably open pros

or I'm thinking of getting an older 126mm freewheel hubset 28 - 36holes, re-spacing the rear axle to use with a single speed freewheel and building wheels for my ss road conversion

Something like that ^^^^ would be good if you were doing 40+ pairs a week...... it'll save you 5-10 minutes a wheel and get them bang on, keeping customers happy (no re works)

In the real world, an upside down frame is fine.

Re:

You need nothing more specialised than a screwdriver and a nice spoke key.
I started with nothing more and the whees I built the are as good as the ones I do now with a jig and dishing tool. Tips I would give are
1. Rather than have the bike upside down, have a hook on the shed door frame and hang the bike by the bars or saddle (depending on front or rear) using an old inner tube. You can then sit comfortably on a stool and see what's happening at eye level
2 go easy on the tightening up - too much on the first spokes and you will struggle to tighten the last ones as you round
3 dishing ( having the rim central between the lock nuts) can be checked by turning the wheel round in the frame. You have it right when its central to the brake blocks whichever way its in the frame
4 keep destressing the wheel, like Neil says, although I've never used his method. I tend to lay the wheel on the floor, grip it at qtr to 3 and gently press down and you'll hear the tinkling as the tension eases
5 don't be too fussy and expect it to be true to within microns. Most bought wheels aren't that good
6. 28 spokers is a tough start. 36 or 40 holers are easier as you have more areas on the rim to work with

mattr":lg154az8 said:

Something like that ^^^^ would be good if you were doing 40+ pairs a week...... it'll save you 5-10 minutes a wheel and get them bang on, keeping customers happy (no re works)

In the real world, an upside down frame is fine.

Click to expand...

It's got no method of working out if the dish is correct either.