Help with 1954 claud butler rear fork spacing
- Thread starter Killian
- Start date
Re:
The 4.5 inch rear spacing was standard on many millions of bikes. I presume you will use a 4 x 3/32 freewheel so it should be fairly easy to adjust the axle spacers as long as you chosen rear hub is not too wide across the flanges. We used to run the chain almost touching the fork end and by judicious bending the gear cage would just touch the spokes. I used 10 speed in 1949. You need a freewheel which will screw on close to the spokes.
Keith
The 4.5 inch rear spacing was standard on many millions of bikes. I presume you will use a 4 x 3/32 freewheel so it should be fairly easy to adjust the axle spacers as long as you chosen rear hub is not too wide across the flanges. We used to run the chain almost touching the fork end and by judicious bending the gear cage would just touch the spokes. I used 10 speed in 1949. You need a freewheel which will screw on close to the spokes.
Keith
Re:
Undo the axle cone lock nuts. Many hubs have loose spacers or washers. We used to adjust the washers / packing spacers to use the least space on the gear side so that the wheel would be stronger, not so far dished.
Some British hubs were spaced so that the gear side spokes were almost vertical, so losing the strength of the wheel. Thats why we used to adjust the spacers.
Keith
Undo the axle cone lock nuts. Many hubs have loose spacers or washers. We used to adjust the washers / packing spacers to use the least space on the gear side so that the wheel would be stronger, not so far dished.
Some British hubs were spaced so that the gear side spokes were almost vertical, so losing the strength of the wheel. Thats why we used to adjust the spacers.
Keith
Re:
Assuming British threading you must get a freewheel where the large cog is close to the spokes, or you might just as well have 5 speed. You cannot waste the space you have between the spokes and the right hand fork end. The less you use the stronger you can make the wheel.
The use of 4.75 inch rear and Campagnolo QR hubs really got going by the mid 1950s, and eased these problems.
Keith
Assuming British threading you must get a freewheel where the large cog is close to the spokes, or you might just as well have 5 speed. You cannot waste the space you have between the spokes and the right hand fork end. The less you use the stronger you can make the wheel.
The use of 4.75 inch rear and Campagnolo QR hubs really got going by the mid 1950s, and eased these problems.
Keith
Takingabreak
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115mm is perfect for a period sturmey archer rear hub, 3 or 4 speed.
