Advice on stripping a steel frame

over the next couple of months I will be breaking down my 1985 Gios Professional to be stripped and refinished.

First question is paint stripping, acid dip or bead/sand blast?

Second question is paint or powder coat? My concerns with powder coat is that it will be thick on the lug work.

Third question is does anyone know the closest Ral code for the Gios blue?

Opinions and advise please.

If you want a Professional Job then pick one of the well known players (Mercian, Bob Jackson, Argos, Atlantic Boulevard etc), drop it off and say you would like it refinished and leave it to them

Shaun

Midlife":359ui85y said:

If you want a Professional Job then pick one of the well known players (Mercian, Bob Jackson, Argos, Atlantic Boulevard etc), drop it off and say you would like it refinished and leave it to them

Shaun

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I've got a local painter that I'm thinking of using as the lead times at argos & brian rourke are approx 6 weeks.

Although price wise it will work out about the same.

For a bike like that you should go for paint instead of powdercoat, in my opinion!

I also have a question about bead/sand blasting a frame: is it also possible to blast the inside of the bottom bracket shell without harming the threads? Or would it be necessary to chase the threads afterwards?

Re:

Take the frame to any small bodyshop, avoid the large insurance approved ones as they won't want to know, get them to match the colour (they will all have paint chips to match it) then get it shot blasted ( most places charge between £20-30) take it back to the bodyshop to get some paint on it asap and get it painted in base and clear(B&C), B&C is the best way to go because the colour can be loaded on to get into all the nooks and crannies with out excessive build of paint, then a nice glossy coat of clear topcoat. You could also ask if they use anti-scratch clear. Don't forget to decide and let them know if you want the decals under the clear. If it was me i wouldn't charge any more than £60 to paint the frame. Make sure you shop round any more than £80 and your being ripped off.

Re: Re:

bojangle":1pps9kbq said:

Take the frame to any small bodyshop, avoid the large insurance approved ones as they won't want to know, get them to match the colour (they will all have paint chips to match it) then get it shot blasted ( most places charge between £20-30) take it back to the bodyshop to get some paint on it asap and get it painted in base and clear(B&C), B&C is the best way to go because the colour can be loaded on to get into all the nooks and crannies with out excessive build of paint, then a nice glossy coat of clear topcoat. You could also ask if they use anti-scratch clear. Don't forget to decide and let them know if you want the decals under the clear.

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The local painter has quoted £40 for B&C, I would just need to apply the decals I want & then get him to clear over them.

It's one of these then ?

Midlife":3buwo30e said:

It's one of these then ?

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Indeed it is, although someone in the past has had it painted & stickered as a Brian Rourke (hence the refinish) The disappointing thing is the current paint is in fantastic condition.

Indeed it is, although someone in the past has had it painted & stickered as a Brian Rourke (hence the refinish) The disappointing thing is the current paint is in fantastic condition.[/quote]


Ride it and enjoy it then, it will ride just as good no matter what it's badged as.

Dale cannon":3jwqllwd said:

Indeed it is, although someone in the past has had it painted & stickered as a Brian Rourke (hence the refinish) The disappointing thing is the current paint is in fantastic condition.

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Ride it and enjoy it then, it will ride just as good no matter what it's badged as.[/quote]


If you like it ride it, you dont have to worry about the badge, theres lots of frames that are badged with one name but made by someone else.