TDC Headset 1950s Replacement Options?

I have just become the next custodian of a Leach Marathon frame pictured elsewhere on the forum. Not sure about the age yet. The paint has to be original? I can't imagine anyone would go to the bother of such extreme box lining. The Reynolds 531 sticker is according to H Lloyd, one thought to be used between 1948 and 1953. But OldTel and Robbied196 have suggested it 'looks' pre war and Leach Marathon frames had metal headbadges post war.

It has a TDC headset. But as the photo below shows (click on it for a larger version), the top and bottom head races are housed in headtube 'swages'. These are merely push fit - actually more of a drop in fit. Not the usual press fit needing tools.

It takes 30 x 1/8" balls per race.

There are some signs of wear on the bottom races - very minor dents on the head race and crown race. But this doesn't result in any significant notchiness. However, it's not silky smooth either. I'm sure? it will be fine in real life when all built up and ridden.

Does anyone know if anything like it exists if and when it gets knackered?

I have re-used the same type races on my '51 Sun and they are fine. I just cleaned them up fully and re-greased. I can't notice the difference between them and new ones when riding.

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Just lost my reply, due to other post.

The head lugs look like a pre war type, but could have been used post war due to shortages.

The head bearings are a type standard to most roadster and sports bikes of the time, apart from Raleigh. Put the bottom loose ring in the top. the head bearings carry very little weight.

Keith

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keithglos":3ekq8ikv said:

Just lost my reply, due to other post.

The head lugs look like a pre war type, but could have been used post war due to shortages.

The head bearings are a type standard to most roadster and sports bikes of the time, apart from Raleigh. Put the bottom loose ring in the top. the head bearings carry very little weight.

Keith

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Thanks jon w and Keith for the helpful information

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I would add that unless you are really fixated on authenticity, there seems no practical reason why you shouldn’t ‘mix and match’ components. I bought a box of Brampton headset components at a jumble and managed to make up a (probable) set for use on my Gillott. The crown race turned out to be oversized so I ended up using some other random and more modern one from the useful bits box; and it feels fine. I don’t see any reason why you shouldn’t just replace the worn components, re-using the original components that are in good condition to preserve the overall appearance. In fact, thinking about it, few of my machines have a headset that is actually a ‘set’, nor bottom brackets for that matter. I’m probably doomed.

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Martin Rattler":26pegdzg said:

I would add that unless you are really fixated on authenticity, there seems no practical reason why you shouldn’t ‘mix and match’ components. I bought a box of Brampton headset components at a jumble and managed to make up a (probable) set for use on my Gillott. The crown race turned out to be oversized so I ended up using some other random and more modern one from the useful bits box; and it feels fine. I don’t see any reason why you shouldn’t just replace the worn components, re-using the original components that are in good condition to preserve the overall appearance. In fact, thinking about it, few of my machines have a headset that is actually a ‘set’, nor bottom brackets for that matter. I’m probably doomed.

Click to expand...

See signature link to my bikes on Flickr

Personally I don't give a fig nor a button for the impossible 'seeking/battling' of period correct details (although I admire and respect those that try and their bikes). As long as I don't do anything to a very worthy old frame and forks' 'integrity' that would be undoable, I will sleep at night and would hope the next custodian will also be respectful?

In this particular instance, it would be a crime to contemplate re painting this Leach Marathon. It will stay with me as is and much loved, if very very faded.

Am awaiting delivery of Grade 10 1/8" ball bearings from SJS (cheaper than Grade 25 :?: :idea: and cheaper than simplybearings.co.uk), so will do as keithglos suggested - swap the top and bottom headtube races over, grease up and assemble. Don't know whether the races actually rotate at all in their loose housing?

Could I suppose remove fork crown race and rotate a quarter turn - but I don't think there's going to be too much of an indexing problem, given the minor indentations to the head tube race. We shall see

Alas it will be a few weeks at least before I can get it all kitted out and rideable. Can't wait

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Excellent! I look forward to following the build; do post lots of pics.