Track Chainrings ...

Another bike, another day, another hic-up...

Just done a complete strip & re-build on my Powell single speed. It was making some horrible noises from the freewheel and was due a service. Turns out I'd smashed the living daylights out of the bearings (bike takes some hammer as it's my work bike). New freewheel installed, everything buttoned up but there's a problem :facepalm:

The chainring has warped, approximately 1 perhaps 2mm. Doesnt sound much but it means the damn thing isn't running as smoothly as it should, bit noisy as the chain engages the teeth on the warped section. I've positioned the chainring at each of the available mounting points but it's warped towards the outer edge for approx 1/6th of the circumference.

So, it looks like it's shot the fox and I need another chainring. Question is: who / where still makes chainrings of this ilk - need a 52T - don't like any of the modern stuff, so looking for something like what I have already ... picture here viewtopic.php?t=226525

Cheers

When I was a bike mender I trued up all chainrings mainly with a hide face hammer.We trued them up on the bike obviously, by a combination of hide face hammer and sometimes large adjustable spanner. Also used to file off the sides of the teeth on some so that they would run out of line smoothly.(early 1950s)
The first time I saw chainrings that ran true was the first Campagnolo chainset.

A hammer :shock: If I can a find a new chainring I'll give that a go! It's rideable so not going to try it just yet but rather than bin it i've not got anything to lose.

Sounds like a lot of fettling was done back in the day! Interesting concept to angle the teeth to accept the chain. Chainline is perfect on mine, well apart from that warped section!

With bikes the hammer was normally used very gently, and you can support the other side a bit. The early Benelux gear with the alloy roller cage and arm would be bent so that when on the larger (47 x 50) chairing the top roller would be slightly closer to the wheel as it dropped away from the cog. Thats how we got the low gear even in pouring rain. The front changer wold have the side plates widened out a bit in the middle and the front of the side plates would be twisted to accurately lift and throw the chain. This was early 1950s. The Benelux gear change was far more accurate than the early GS, but if falling over you had make sure it was on the lleft side to avoid damage.
Keith

Great stuff, these recollections are a tremendous insight. Sounds like it was when the rider actually knew more about how things needed to work rather than what the manufacturers were putting on the shelves. Hope you didn't practice falling to the left!

Very much noted your point on being very gentle with the old hammer!!

A bit off topic:
Appearance was a secondary consideration, the stuff needed to work, and our bikes were our main transport. By 1950 I was running a 10 speed system, (13,15,17,19,21 47x50)and covered something like 15000 miles that year. The Cyclo 5 speed freewheel with 3 simultaneous half-moon pawls and Brampton (French) chain would do about 5000 miles, I remember mainly the days of rain, and rutted snow and ice on the roads for 6 weeks.
Some of the time I was on old Constrictor tubulars, which were repaired by separating the threads between the base tapes, no stitching. The french made maple rims were virtually indestructible.
Keith

Please excuse my ignorance but 10 speed by 1950?!?! That's far earlier than I had thought. 15,000 is some going, especially when it includes a full calender year and all that that brings. How did you learn that certain things worked with together? It was all new territory at that time.

Just had a browse of Constrictor on flickr - nice collection of sales information http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikegerris ... 912888320/

Can't quite imagine riding on wooden rims, one of the few pieces from old that didn't make it to where we are now.

The wood rims were American maple with 4 laminations, OK in the wet 16 ounces and very strong.
I always had a sort of mechanical awareness, and a need to make things work.
I think I was about 12 when I had my BSA 3 speed apart, also a Dursley Pedersen 3 speed.
Keith

A need to make things work - a great trait - I have the same but a disabling lack of patience. Hence why I end up with so many threads on here!

Think a trip to the Cycle Museum is required, get some better knowledge and history in.

Excellent stories!

Yeah 1-2mm is enough to make grinding noises. I'll ask it anyway in case you haven't checked- are you double certain that it's the chainring and not the bottom bracket gone awry? So first of all you need to know the pcd of the chainring. If you can't find it stamped on the 'ring or cranks there is a way to measure it somewhere on the Sheldon Brown site. Once you know that, you've got a choice of Miche ($), Andele ($$), Shimano ($$$), Campagnolo ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) and a few others.

eBay seller Velosolo has some nice ones at what seems like good value. He keeps all the usual pcds. Not seen any at 52T though, everywhere I get my track stuff from usually only goes up to 48T, so might be worth dropping him a line to see if he can get them in 52T: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300791239559