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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 10:09 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 7:53 pm
Posts: 70
I've just acquired a Viking 'Tour of Britain' with a double cable stop on top tube to allow the front mech to be operated from a rh bar end lever with the cable running along the top tube and down the seat tube via a Sturmey Archer pulley wheel located near the seat lug. This method was favoured by Ian Steel when he raced successfully for Viking in the early 1950s. QUESTION: will any front mech operate this way or would it have to be something special and rare?? Help please.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 10:46 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 8223
Location: Cumbria
I guess you will need a front mech that has a cable stop attached to it like an early campag or early Suntour......... ?

Shaun


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 11:06 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:24 am
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Location: Denmark
Yes if the cable run all the way, but if the housing stops along the seat tube and runs just the cable to the front mech, any mech would do right?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 11:21 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 7:53 pm
Posts: 70
I'm probably being a bit dense. I don't quite understand the need for a cable stop. The Sturmey pulley wheel guides the bare cable around the sharp bend (top tube to seat tube) and from there isn't it a straight run to the front mech's pinch bolt? But I bet I'm missing a trick as per usual ;)


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:11 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 8223
Location: Cumbria
Front mech pinch bolt takes the cable from underneath and pulls it down.........the cable either slings under the BB, the cable runs in a cable guide on top of the BB or there is some outer cable.

Like yourself I wonder if I am missing something from before my time (which is the 70's)

Where's Keithglos :)

Shaun


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:44 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 7:53 pm
Posts: 70
I think I've got it now. The cable MUST reach the pinch bolt from below. Therefore the cable could run under the bottom bracket in cable housing in which case two cable stops are required: one at the bottom of the seat tube and another integral to the front mech (Shaun's Suntour/early Campag suggestion??).

OR run the bare cable beneath the bottom bracket through a braze-on/screw-on/glue-on cable guide(s) and up to the pinch bolt. I like the sound of this option because any front mech should do the trick. I wonder how Ian Steel solved it?

I hope that's it anyway... in the meantime - cheers guys , thanks for your help :)


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:50 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 8223
Location: Cumbria
Pics would help to solve it :)

Shaun


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 1:10 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 7:53 pm
Posts: 70
All the pics are in my head at moment Shaun. Frame is at the refinishers. I intend running a single 40T chainring at first with a 14-28 5-speed freewheel block (back end is 120mm). But a 40/34 double might be required later (I live in the South Pennines and my legs are old) in which case I rather fancy using the original Viking/Ian Steel early 1950s solution. I've got the Sturmey pulley wheel so I'm part way there! I hope extra long gear cable is available.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 9:52 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:07 pm
Posts: 1321
Location: Cotswolds
I have a pulley on the 1951 Les Vince, but the front changer must accept the cable from the top. Can you find one that does.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=94750&p=852644&hilit=les+vince#p852644


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 6:47 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 7:53 pm
Posts: 70
keithglos wrote:
I have a pulley on the 1951 Les Vince, but the front changer must accept the cable from the top. Can you find one that does.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=94750&p=852644&hilit=les+vince#p852644

Thanks Keith, I'll start looking. But before I do please tell me how efficient this front changing method is. It might have been an early 1950s fad that never caught on for obvious reasons. Both levers being on the rh side is handy - but a lh lever has worked for the majority for many years and is no big problem.


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