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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 9:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:24 am
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Location: Denmark
I´m in the process of sourcing items to build a set of wheels for my own bike, and since it´s for myself (and not a costumer) I thought i might document the process if there´s a interest for it.
I´we been a Mechanic for 13 years, a team Mec for a couple of year too. Been building all sorts of wheels (Fixed, BMX, MTB, Triatlon, Race and Training wheels) for more then a decade.


Last edited by Synthesis on Sun Nov 17, 2013 3:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 9:27 pm 
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Looking forward to this


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 10:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:00 pm
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Location: Ely. UK
I've built a few wheels, but I'd certainly be interested in any wheel building info, technique etc.

Please fire away :-)


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 11:02 pm 
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Okey, I´ll do photos and explain throughout the process then. I still need a few bits before I can get started, but I´ll share what the wheels consist of, and why I chose it. these are modern wheels for my 2004 Pinarello Prince SL, I hope you don´t mind. Rims are Ambrosio Excellight, 28 hole front and 32 hole rear, hubs are Miche box racing. Spokes are Sapim Laser double butted 2-1.5-2mm, these wheels need to support my ample body (88kg) Front wheel and nondrive side will be laced with Sapim polyax Aluminum 14mm Nipples, drive side with Polyax 14mm brass. Front will be laced radial, a 28 hole rim is at the edge of hole count where this can be done without failure of the hub flange, rear will be laced 1 cross nondrive side and 2 cross drive side, this because you again can´t lace Radial on a 32 hole hub. As always when I build a wheel I´ll be using DT Swiss Proline Spoke Washers, and as extra bonus (both for me and hopefully you) I´ll be tying and soldering the spokes on both sides of the rear wheel.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 1:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:00 pm
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Location: Ely. UK
Superb stuff. I think you should rename this post "The Official Wheel building thread" :mrgreen:

When I get it finished, I will post a photo of my home made wheel building jig!
I might get it finished by Christmas.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:05 pm 
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This will be a great thread. Ive built a few wheels and am always looking to improve my skills. Couple of points, you say that a 28 spoke count is the minimum that can be done without hub failure. Ive built a 24 spoke front wheel radial and so far its ok. Ive also built 32 hole hubs crossed on drive side and radial on non drive side but you suggest that a 32 spoke wheel cant be built radial. Maybe Ive misunderstood but it would be great if you could provide some clarification on these two points.

mcpea how about a build thread about your homemade jig?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:31 pm 
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28 hole is the hub with max. holes, that can safely be laced radial. This because there is "too little meat" on a hub with more holes, ie. 32 or 36 hole hubs. So to answer your question 24 spoke front wheel is okay with radial lacing, the 32 spoke rear wheel on the other hand. I never do it, mostly because I have to stand behind my product but, it can be done IF you use spoke washers. hub flanges failing are almost always do to play between the spoke and the spoke hole. Most manufactures drill a 2.5 or even a 2.6mm hole for the spokes, this means that when you ride your wheel the spoke will be moving in the spoke hole in the hub, stressing the alu. until it fails. this can be prevented by using spoke washers, the washer centers the spoke in the hole and deforms into a form that fills the hole and holds the spoke firmly in place, if you are using 1.8mm spokes you need to use washers meant for 1.8mm spokes and not 2mm.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:57 pm 
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Thanks for the very detailed answer. Ive used spoke washers in one of my rear wheels and none in the other. I report back if either of them break. I always try and use spoke washers. Keep us posted on the build.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 10:22 pm 
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A word about the hubs I´ll be using, The Miche company has a 90 year history of production of mainly drivetrain components, they do make nice hubs at a cheap price range however, the hubs are drilled with 2.5mm holes so washers must be used, otherwise they are prone to failure do to spoke stress.

Image

light hubs does really nothing for our wheels, other than making them light overall. Rotational weight on the other hand is down to the weight of the rim, spokes, tube and tires. A wheel with a low rotational weight is a fast wheel, easy to bring up to speed and quick to react to input from the rider, ideally we want our wheel to be as light as possible and as stiff as possible, not easy to achieve in practice. To make a wheel stiff we need tension, spoke tension. The more tension we can put on the spokes, the stiffer a wheel we can achieve, this all relay on the integrity of the hub, nipple and rim since these will always fail before a spoke will. more on the rim later.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:35 pm 
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If you want to understand a little more about stiffness of the wheel, this article by Greg Kopecky will get you there:

http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Debunkin ... _3449.html


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