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 Post subject: Clip headset question
PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:10 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:31 pm
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I have an elderly Dawes. I believe it to be prewar but may be wrong. Resilion cantis, clip headset, very deep and narrow drop etc. The frame has small rectangular lugs below the chainstay. For an early gear change I assume.
The headset is giving me issues. I just cannot adjust it to run smoothly without either binding or rocking. At the bottom there is a race on the fork but the frame has a grove/race that is integral. ie the bearing run in the frame. Its the same at the top. In fact it remarkably like a modern frame where cartridge bearing sit in the frame but with loose balls. The races look and feel smooth. Bearing are new.
Am I likely to be going about this the wrong way. The headset is as it was when dismantled from what looked to be like original. Everything was greased and smooth where out of the elements (I think, its been a loooong project) . It had to come out because the fork was bent.
Your thoughts please.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:22 am 
rBoTM Winner
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:48 pm
Posts: 455
Location: N. Herts
Hi, just a suggestion, take the clip out of the equation to start with, and get hold of a couple of headset spacers, and a more modern headset lock nut and just temporarily use these to do up the headset, it should allow to you to see what is happening as far as the top race is concerned at least. The bend fork bit doesn't sound like its helping. Terry


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:58 am 
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Fork replaced. good idea with spacers.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 9:06 am 
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Location: Cotswolds
Usually with a head clip the head lugs had a removable bearing ring with 1/8 inch balls. Some had 3/16 in the lower lug. The top thread was 31/32 inch by 56. The brazed on gear hanger would have been for the Cyclo twin wire gear from mid 1930s to about 1948.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 1:22 pm 
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Just realised that the clip and top race are the same thing. Not removable bearing ring evident.
I'll keep at it.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 1:56 pm 
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Location: Cotswolds
The loose bearing rings are in the lugs, or should be. Lugs were cast iron or welded pressed steel, made for brazing, so needed a case hardened insert.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 7:31 pm 
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Just pulled it apart. Lower bearing ring is pressed in and upper one just lifts out. I bet I have the wrong size bearings in! 1/8th in both. Well .124"
They do seem to fit though.
What about the amount? Fill the race and take 1 out?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 7:36 pm 
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Location: Cotswolds
The top is usually 1/8 inch, and the lower can be 1/8 or 5/32 or 3/16.
If the bottom casting is a similar size to the top then 1/8 should do.
Keith.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:27 pm 
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The casting looks the same but the bearing race is not. The bottom one looks to be pressed in whereas the top one is curved in profile, a bit like those curved washers you get to toe in brake shoes.
I guess some fiddling is needed.
I would ditch the clip if I could but cannot use a normal headset.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:37 pm 
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Location: Cotswolds
The bearing in the bottom head lug has to be an insert, should be similar to the top.(unless it's missing) They were the same as millions of cheap roadster bikes had fitted.
The curved shape of the headlug allowed the bearing ring to self align, so making assembly easier. Used to sell them at 4 old pence each in the 50s.
Keith


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