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PostPosted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 3:48 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:00 pm
Posts: 523
Location: Ely. UK
Finding it difficult to get these set up correctly on the Raleigh banana.
Bolted them to the frame & secured the cable. When brake is pulled, the side with the screw adjuster stays against the rim & the other side retracts. Tried for ages different settings, positions etc. Still no luck.
There is a nut on the front of the brake, not sure what this does or how to set it.
Can someone please point me in the right direction. I'd be so grateful as getting frustrated.
Photo is of a similar design to what I've got.

Many thanks again,

Richard :)


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 4:10 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:07 pm
Posts: 1323
Location: Cotswolds
There shoould be 2 nuts on the front, the outer a domed nut, and a slim locking nut behind. These are to adjust the pivot so that the arms move freely without much wobble. The brake is probably turning a bit as you tighten the rear nut.
Get it as near as you can, then tap the top of the spring lightly where it is coiled on the side that is off the rim with some blunt instrument.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:07 pm 
rider | rBoTM Winner
rider | rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:42 pm
Posts: 5132
Location: Wakefield, Yorkshire
keithglos wrote:
There shoould be 2 nuts on the front, the outer a domed nut, and a slim locking nut behind. These are to adjust the pivot so that the arms move freely without much wobble. The brake is probably turning a bit as you tighten the rear nut.
Get it as near as you can, then tap the top of the spring lightly where it is coiled on the side that is off the rim with some blunt instrument.


Or unhook the spring on the 'rim touching' side and pull/bend it out very slightly.

Welcome to the world of retro brakes :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 8:59 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 8246
Location: Cumbria
As above really, centre it up as best as possible using the nut at the back of the brake...........then if you are an old hand like Keithglos use a "drift" which is a piece of metal to tap the spring on the open side to bodily move / rotate the brake a bit. Or if you have read the textbook then do it as Old ned. Use a screwdriver blade to unhook the spring on the close side and then with some needle nose pliers pull the spring towards you then re-hook the spring.. The brake will not move but the increased pull will "centre" the callipers...

As with most things retro there is usually a couple of ways of doing things :)

Shaun


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 9:11 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:07 pm
Posts: 1323
Location: Cotswolds
Shaun, it's now 37 years since I last did all this. Also used to bend the brake arms so that the front of the brake block touched the rim first.

Keith


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 9:18 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 8246
Location: Cumbria
Yep, big screwdriver in the brake block slot wrapped in cloth and bend forward...............worked a treat to stop brake judder :)

35 years since I did it in anger..........

Shaun


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 9:26 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:07 pm
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Location: Cotswolds
I meant 47 years, I forgot I am 80 now.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 11:53 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 8246
Location: Cumbria
Blimey, I hope I'm still tapping away and helping people out a few years from now :)

Shaun


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 8:02 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:00 pm
Posts: 523
Location: Ely. UK
MANY thanks for everybody's valued advice and input.
Damn I love this place :D

Cheers

Richard :D


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