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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 5:31 pm 
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Did you have to pull the rear dropouts apart slightly to get the N. Tipo hub in?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:03 pm 
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I had that thought, wondered if the nuovo tipo had been spaced out for a 126mm rear end "losing" some axle in the process......

Shaun


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 11:33 pm 
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Hi,

Yup, i had to pull them a bit - maybe a couple of mm. I think that removing the two washers between the locknuts and spacers should give me a bit moe axle in the dropout.

Bugloss, Why did you ask about that?

Richard


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 4:59 am 
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There you go, it's probably spaced for a 126mm between dropouts (see Midlifes' post)

Take off the skinny silver washers and it'll fit better. Just check your clearance of the 6 speed block as you don't want to ruin your frame.

Make sure the wheel runs central to the frame as your brake will play up if it's not.

And adjust the adjusters with a screw driver ( like the man said ) not the knurled nobby bit as that screws off, as you found out. The reason why it screws off is because that's how you get it in the frame in the first place. :D


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 7:45 am 
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Thanks all,

If i get some time today, i will remove the washers and adjust the dropout screws. My suspicion is that the screws have not be moved for a very long time, the frame is a Gazelle Champion Mondial A-Frame from 1976.

Richard


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 1:54 pm 
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bugloss wrote:
Take off the skinny silver washers and it'll fit better. Just check your clearance of the 6 speed block as you don't want to ruin your frame.


The thin steel washers are important tabbed washers to help with the cone adjustment (or were).

The way we used to set the hub spacers was to adjust the gear side as close to the fork end as possible, then sort out the other side. This is to have the least dishing on the wheel which obviously weakens it.
Keith


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 2:00 pm 
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TBH I wouldn't persevere with the adjustment screws.......small tweak with a screwdriver and if they don't move then I'd leave them. They used to get rusted in after a year never mind since the 70's. You don't need them to keep a wheel from slipping and they look about in the right place for a 70's bike. We tried to shorten the wheelbase LOL


Shaun


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 4:40 pm 
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keithglos wrote:
bugloss wrote:
Take off the skinny silver washers and it'll fit better. Just check your clearance of the 6 speed block as you don't want to ruin your frame.


The thin steel washers are important tabbed washers to help with the cone adjustment (or were).


That's true but he wants more axel, the skinny washers serve to stop the cone and the lock nut from rotating together. Mostly things are there for a reason, but in your case you have a couple of options.

Locktite on the locknut is your temporary friend here and ditch the washers.

Or ( proper version ) you can space the axel to 120mm properly as below (Note: mine is a 5 speed pursuit wheel).

Yours is all wrong at the moment and to get the thing to be as it should you need two new locking nuts and drop the thick silver spacer on the non drive side and one on the drive side.

You will need to re-jiggle the cones to make things correct and depending on the dish of your wheel you may only be able to use a 5 speed. I'm no wheel builder so you need to consult someone who knows what they are talking about.
(Note the English thread. :D )


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 6:55 pm 
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Thanks all,

To to sum up the options

1. Leave as is
2. Get the wheel respaced to 120 and it should be fine
3. Locktight the locknut to the spacer on each side (having removed the washers)

I am still having difficulty understanding why the spacers would not work like washers if i removed the washers.

On the dropout adjusters front - check if they are free and pretty much leave alone.

Pondering on,

Richard


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 7:12 pm 
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Well, the spacers will act like washers but they "may" still rotate with the lock nut/ cone ensemble. The skinny washers have a tab that sits in a channel milled into the axel so they cannot rotate, the spacers don't have the tab.

They are there for a reason after all.

If it was mine and I had no new thick locknuts I would try all the other options starting with removing the skinny washers, no locktite and working on etc, etc.....

Dropout adjusters- I moved mine after 30 years being in a frame without a problem, so........... get the screw driver out and twiddle gently.

If you're lucky I may have a pair of thick lock nuts you can have. Depending on a man in Belgium.
You'll have to wait till after the 5 September though.


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