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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 9:47 am 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 3:03 pm
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Location: In the village
Hi
They are not drill bits. They work with a tap handle, like in a tap and die and not a bath tap. You drill a pilot in the grub screw and screw the easyout into the hole. When it tightens enough it should screw the grub out provided there is not too much corrosion and the pilot hole is deep enough.

As a last resort you could drill the grub out with as large as possible drill bit and pick it out in pieces. This is a job for a drill stand and it's probably best to take it to a good engineering shop.

You need to also bear in mind that the grub is under tension if the seat post is still in the hole, so you are fighting this too.

Good luck.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 1:59 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 11:16 am
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Location: Camden, London
bugloss wrote:
As Midlife says, use the easy out.
They only damage the grub screw.


that's fine until the screw breaks and leaves half behind..............


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 3:44 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:23 pm
Posts: 973
Location: Kent, UK
bugloss wrote:
Hi
They are not drill bits. They work with a tap handle, like in a tap and die and not a bath tap. You drill a pilot in the grub screw and screw the easyout into the hole. When it tightens enough it should screw the grub out provided there is not too much corrosion and the pilot hole is deep enough.

As a last resort you could drill the grub out with as large as possible drill bit and pick it out in pieces. This is a job for a drill stand and it's probably best to take it to a good engineering shop.

You need to also bear in mind that the grub is under tension if the seat post is still in the hole, so you are fighting this too.

Good luck.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts


Thanks - I'm not sure if this has made me feel better or not??!?!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 7:39 pm 
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:28 pm
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Location: Mansfield Woodhouse, Nott's.
Blast the surrounding alloy with carburettor cleaner! The alloy will expand quicker than the steel bolt,
It will get really really cold and could/can crack the corroded in bolt, then use the stud extractor.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 8:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:23 pm
Posts: 973
Location: Kent, UK
Ian Raleigh wrote:
Blast the surrounding alloy with carburettor cleaner! The alloy will expand quicker than the steel bolt,
It will get really really cold and could/can crack the corroded in bolt, then use the stud extractor.


Thanks for this suggestion. Appreciated.

Had already been regularly been blasting it with a pressurised can called "Crack It" - which I picked up at the local motor spares shop that they convinced me to buy instead of Plusgas. It does come out at high pressure, and noticeably pretty cold. (I wouldn't spray it directly on my fingers).

After having done this for a few days, I was then going to alternate heating up the whole joint with a hairdryer (so as not to stick a bare flame on it), and them blast it with the Crack It stuff to cool it right down again and crack the corrosion. A few treatments of this, then was going to try to turn the Torx bit that I've hammered into the grub bolt to see it will turn....

The reverse thread drill bits have just turned up too, so if the Torx bit didn't work, was going to drill it.

Sound like a plan?


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 Post subject: Re: Success...
PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 3:21 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:23 pm
Posts: 973
Location: Kent, UK
Had continued to soak the grub screw / seatpin in Crack It for the last few months - trying every so often to twist out the grub screw - yesterday, it finally cracked!

In the end, once it had started to move, the grub screw came out with ease. I had really hammered an oversized Torx bolt into the allen key opening, and given it a little bit of welly with a 10mm socket and a ratchet wrench.

The real fkr was the removal of the seatpin, which was defo a 2 man job to hold the frame still whilst you really had to twist the little sob. The bottom half of the seatpin was green! The crack-it also managed to free up the top of the seatpin too, so this has also now freed and the saddle is released too....

So, patience and attrition was the order of the day - plus the freezing effect of the CrackIt seemed to work in the end for me too. Most important thing was no damage to any of the parts too.... result.


Attachments:
File comment: This is how nasty the seatpin was too...
P8140295-2.jpg
P8140295-2.jpg [ 331.4 KiB | Viewed 296 times ]
File comment: Free and empty!
P8160298-2.jpg
P8160298-2.jpg [ 265.92 KiB | Viewed 296 times ]
File comment: A truly buggered grub screw
P8140293-2.jpg
P8140293-2.jpg [ 279.08 KiB | Viewed 296 times ]
File comment: Torx bolt hammered into place
P8140292-2.jpg
P8140292-2.jpg [ 297.45 KiB | Viewed 296 times ]
File comment: CrackIt works well over time...
P8140294-2.jpg
P8140294-2.jpg [ 328.52 KiB | Viewed 296 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 3:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:23 pm
Posts: 973
Location: Kent, UK
Anyone know where I can source a replacement grub screw?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 9:48 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:17 pm
Posts: 3775
Location: Norn Iron
^^^^ made me laugh!

LOL

Richard


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 10:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:23 pm
Posts: 973
Location: Kent, UK
Annoyingly, someone, somewhere has told me that they can source them. Now I can't find where it was written.... :evil:


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 10:38 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:17 pm
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Location: Norn Iron
Not me - this time!

Richard


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