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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 1:45 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:23 pm
Posts: 973
Location: Kent, UK
Hi to all

I recently picked up a vintage Vitus frame and have just discovered the previous owner was pretty liberal with the lube in its life!

Long story short - the grub screw that secures the seat post has corroded in situ, and someone's earlier efforts to undo it have rounded off the Allen key head! Nice...

As it's fully recessed into the seat lug, anyone got any tips, tricks or other witchcraft for removing the grub screw without doing too much damage to the frame? The frame and seatpin are well worth saving!

Many thanks indeed for any replies....

(it's presently being regularly soaked with plusgas and gt40 to help alleviate the corrosion)


Last edited by rjsdavis on Sat Jul 20, 2013 2:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 1:59 am 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2010 11:28 am
Posts: 5634
Location: Gorleston-on-sea (If there is a bright center to the universe this is place furthest from it
Hi

You could try some of these :D

http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-extract ... -set/18643

Just drill a small pilot hole and Roberts your mothers brother :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 2:30 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:23 pm
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Location: Kent, UK
Thanks Kermit, yes these are very much on my radar but I had figured that this was absolutely the method of final, final resort. There's little coming back from the damage that these baby's will no doubt do one would imagine!

I suspect that there isn't anything else that can be done, but thought it was worth an ask as I would imagine I'm not the first to face this problem with a Vitus frame. Was hoping for a miracle cure that I just couldn't think of!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 4:41 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 4:15 pm
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Location: Behind you with the duct tape pulled out.
Could always try tapping in a slightly too big torx bit see if that wont bite enough to undo it.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 11:21 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
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Location: Cumbria
Don't see why a screw extractor would be the final resort...........it's the next logical step :D

Shaun


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 11:40 am 
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Location: Manchester, UK
poweredbypies wrote:
Could always try tapping in a slightly too big torx bit see if that wont bite enough to undo it.


+1 for that first :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 2:27 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:23 pm
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Location: Kent, UK
poweredbypies wrote:
Could always try tapping in a slightly too big torx bit see if that wont bite enough to undo it.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 7:42 pm 
Newbie

Joined: Sat Jul 20, 2013 6:49 pm
Posts: 3
small metal blade, as the hole in this is quite deep cut a groove either side (carefully) and get a screw driver in there. Rather crude but it worked for me! Fingers crossed the seatpost comes out. If not turn it upside down, pour some coca cola down the tube and leave to soak. Alloy to alloy corrosion is common with Vitus and Alan.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 8:06 pm 
retrobike rider
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Location: In the village
As Midlife says, use the easy out.
They only damage the grub screw.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 11:53 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:23 pm
Posts: 973
Location: Kent, UK
JulesB wrote:
small metal blade, as the hole in this is quite deep cut a groove either side (carefully) and get a screw driver in there. Rather crude but it worked for me! Fingers crossed the seatpost comes out. If not turn it upside down, pour some coca cola down the tube and leave to soak. Alloy to alloy corrosion is common with Vitus and Alan.


Does that really work? Can't see how you'd get the leverage on a straight screwdriver/blade once you'd got it into the old Allen key slot!

May have to rely on the tip for coca cola, as the saddle bolt on the seatpin is also corroded, as was the stem/bars!

At least the stem/bars are free and out now, but it wasn't especially easy - clear evidence of corrosion on the stem quill. Just can't get the purchase on the Allen bolt, but picked up a slightly too large 10mm Torx bolt and have hammered it into place - currently soaking the bolt, seatpin and seatpin bolt in "Crack It" (which comes out surprisingly cold actually) at regular intervals to give it a better chance of being loosened with minimal damage...

If this doesn't work - the reverse drill bits will be next!


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