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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:49 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:42 pm
Posts: 13
Got this bike today from a friend. He rode it a lot back in the day. It belonged to the Norwegian champion sometime during the early 70´s or late 60´s.
However, I intend to fix it up and use it for training and fun. Tips on restoring it and where to get parts would be much appreciated. At least I think I´ll need tyres, brake wires and tubing, handlebar "tape", a rivet for the seat (Brooks B17), brake pads an perhaps a chain (very stiff). Also, the rear wheel won´t follow properly when I hold the bike and pedal it. The gear shifter arm also "follows" forward as the chain moves. Pedals/chain get kind of stuck to before the "continue".

Well, here it is!

Image

Image

Image


Last edited by jupan on Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:38 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 11:06 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:56 pm
Posts: 209
Location: Flipping between Wigan and Lincoln
The drive-train issues may well just be caused by the chain being tight - I'd try splitting it and soaking it in oil myself as replacing it on its own is unlikely to be practical (you will more than likely need new chainrings, a new freewheel (won't be a cassette at that age) and maybe rear mech.

If the freewheel is sticking (not free-wheeling or slipping) lubricating that might help.

Cable inners and outers are fairly universal as far as I'm aware so, assuming you can get white, replacing those should be trivial.

Bar tape should be obtainable from a LBS but if you want to stay period you might struggle.

As for the (what look like) rust spots on the chrome bits - brillo pads and elbow grease followed by a light coating of wax should sort that out :)

Can't wait to see the finished article!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 11:13 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:42 pm
Posts: 13
Elysarian wrote:

If the freewheel is sticking (not free-wheeling or slipping) lubricating that might help.


As for the (what look like) rust spots on the chrome bits - brillo pads and elbow grease followed by a light coating of wax should sort that out :)


Thank you for replying!

Questions:

1. How do I lubricate the freewheel?
2. What is a brillo pad and what is elbow grease (I am Norwegian)? And what kind of wax? Car polish? Yes, rust both on chrome and frame.

:)


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 11:39 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:42 pm
Posts: 13
Okay, got it regarding Q2. Google is your friend ;)


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 11:59 pm 
rBoTM Winner
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:18 pm
Posts: 2373
Location: California
Looking at the parts this is a very old bike, maybe middle 1950s. From what I can see you have Universal brakes/levers, a Stronglight crank, and Campagnolo Gran Sport front derailleur/shifters/hubs. All of this is good because it points to a quality build that should be good to restore. I agree with the above comment that removing the chain and soaking it in a solvent is the first step. I would however not use the Brillo Pad because the steel wool in the pad is too harsh for chrome parts and can actually cause damage. Better to find some 0000 steel wool and use a light machine oil.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 12:05 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:42 pm
Posts: 13
Great tip and good news! I really the bike and believe it is of good quality but in the need for some TLC.

How could I lube up the freewheel/rear hub or what it is called?

Where could I find tyres for this bike? Looks like the rims are 25" x 2 1/16" (22mm).


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 12:51 am 
Old School Hero

Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:56 pm
Posts: 209
Location: Flipping between Wigan and Lincoln
Lubing the freewheel:

lay the wheel level and turn the cogs - you should be able to see where the gap between the fixed part and the moving part is, a light oil in there a few drops at a time should be enough to free up any sticky parts.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 1:32 am 
rBoTM Winner
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:18 pm
Posts: 2373
Location: California
Above is a good suggestion. Removing the chain will require a chain breaking tool which is cheap but takes a little practice. once it is off soak the chain in a solvent like paint thinner then reinstall and lightly oil with bicycle specific type of lubricant. Also the freewheel cogs will need the rust cleared off. Here you can be a little more aggressive with a wire brush or similar. the tires for this bike are glue on tubulars which will need to be installed by a bike shop. Mos likely if you plan on riding the bike you will want to change the rims to clinchers.

Steven


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 3:54 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:42 pm
Posts: 13
Okay, thanks for the good advice!

Any tip on where to buy clincher rims online?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 12:35 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2012 2:08 pm
Posts: 2185
Location: Shrewsbury
Before you spend hours cleaning the chain it would be worth measuring. If you count 2 rivets that is one link, each link consists of the outside link and the inside link. If you count 12 links and measure it should be 12 inches. If its more then its stretched and you may as well replace it as it will wear the sprocket teeth. Its also worth having a good look at the sprocket teeth to check that they look symmetrical and are not already worn :)


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