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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 11:35 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:10 pm
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That's it, just as mrcpea says.

Bear in mind that the difference between 'play' and 'crunchy' probably lies within a quarter-revolution, or less, of the adjustable cup. So 'fine-tuning' is within an eighth of a revolution, or less? That's why it's good to have the two tools on the job at once- the one to hold the adjustable cup in position, against the torque of the one tightening the lockring, otherwise tightening the lockring tends to move the adjustable cup too.

The same thing applies to all the ball-bearings on a bike- hence cone-spanners, and those three headset/BB spanners over there on the left, although of course you can improvise..


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 4:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:00 pm
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Location: Ely. UK
torqueless wrote:

The same thing applies to all the ball-bearings on a bike- hence cone-spanners, and those three headset/BB spanners over there on the left, although of course you can improvise..


I think I'm going to buy a headset spanner as well, good advice there torqueless.
I normally use a large adjustable!
I have recently bought some cone spanners from eBay, quite good ones & it's made no end of difference from using my usual ground down normal spanners :oops:


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 28, 2013 2:31 pm
Posts: 114
Hi all,

Just got around to installing the bb. I am using the correct tools simultaneously but can't quite get it to absolute zero play without it getting crunchy. Is it okay to leave this fractional play. Or is it better to tighten er on the crunchy side?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 7:30 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
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Location: Cumbria
Lost track a bit..........is this a brand new BB ?

Shaun


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 8:36 pm 
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Doesn't look like an unused one, if it's the one in the picture upthread?

That shouldn't happen if the cup/axle bearing surfaces are in good condition, (and the bearings, of course).

Also the faces of the bracket shell need to be true to ensure the alignment of the cups to eachother. You could check them by holding a straight-edge each side across the diameter and making sure they don't converge or diverge, but if they do, rectifying it is usually framebuilders business.

If you're using the caged bearings, you could try replacing them with a full complement of new loose balls on each side, and see if that improves things.

IMO the bracket is one place on a bike where it's nice to get as close to perfection as you can.. your knees and ankles may appreciate it too.. so it's difficult to choose between two less than optimal alternatives, especially with Campagnolo.. On a bike BB, I don't think either 'loose' or 'crunchy' (within reason) will be unsafe, just inefficient, and perhaps further detrimental to the bearings. Obviously any play in evidence will be amplified at the other end of the cranks.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 9:59 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Location: Cumbria
Looking at the axle it has some marks on the bearing surface so at zero play it may well be just a little "crunchy". The caged bearings look OK, by the time the bearings themselves have gone the cage is wrecked as it is usually the cage that wears down first.

Have a final go but using the each tool separately. tighten the cup so the axle just has a little play and then tighten the ring and check. if a little loose then back off the ring and tighten the cup then tighten the ring........keep doing it an increment at a time until there is no play.

If there is a little catch / crunch then it's the axle being a little pitted.

Carry on, get out and ride it and make a mental note to look out for a new BB for next year :)

The outside of the BB shell being out of alignment isn't usually a problem until you use it.........and the then the cups work loose.

Shaun


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