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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 6:32 pm 
retrobike rider
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Thanks guys, that is pretty much what the previous owner said, but I was expecting some sort of guide would be needed.

Shaun; not seen Keith's post, I'll do a search, as that's pretty much the first job.

Saw a new Ford Focus today in a metallic colour very close to Flam Lime... that's the colour decided.


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 6:45 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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On iPhone again but have you seen the Argos for sale on here. That's a nice green as well :). Shaun.


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 8:02 pm 
retrobike rider
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The Argos bike is a nice colour, but I fancy something with just a little more ZING!

Look at Flamboyant Lime on Jackson's page: http://www.bobjacksoncycles.co.uk/colours.php

I'd like something along those lines.


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 10:14 pm 
retrobike rider
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Midlife wrote:
Have you seen Keithglos's post on how to remove stubborn cranks?



Tonight will go down as 'The Night of the Big Hammers' :shock:

First, after bathing all components in GT85 I started on the adjustable cup lock ring. It was... locked. A few carefully aimed taps with hammer and punch at it moved enough for my C spanner to take over. Same with the cup itself, a few taps and the tone changed very slightly, that told me it was on the move, out came the pin wrench and we were good.

Next the cranks. I tried Keith's technique, which did not work initially. So I used an alternative, a large puller, left over from my motorcycle days. The non-drive crank came of with a bang! Next I rested the whole frame on a workmate and set to with punch and hammer and that popped the axle out of the non-drive side.

Next job, the drive side cup. Once again lots of lube and then into the bench vice with it. I soon had it moving, but it needed nearly a full rotation (difficult with the position of my vice), before I could take over with the spanner.

Last job will be removing the quill stem, which was jammed solid earlier this evening, but is at least rotating now.

Interestingly, the BB thread is English.

Oh and I had a little rub at the green paint, but can find no sign of any lettering underneath on any of the tubes.


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 11:56 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Sounds like a very productive night )

Lime Flams are very gold coloured, well they were 35 years ago LOL

Shaun


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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 12:00 am 
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Thought I'd mention I have a 1st gen shimano fetish and have about 7 sets of brakes........if you fancy a set I'm sure I can rustle something up :)

Shaun


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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 7:31 am 
retrobike rider
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Midlife wrote:
Thought I'd mention I have a 1st gen shimano fetish and have about 7 sets of brakes........if you fancy a set I'm sure I can rustle something up :)

Shaun


Interesting.

Would they suite the offset brake cable guides?


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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 9:40 am 
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Location: Completely in the dark, thanks to me good mate Terry....
Old Ned wrote:
You're saying mid-70's but when did the over bracket rear mech cable guides get phased out in favour of under-bracket ones?


Dad's old Carlton Criterium (pale metallic green when purchased, so ca.1980) definitely had an over-bracket guide for the rear gear cable.

David


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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 9:49 am 
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night of the hammers eh? Every cyclists toolkit needs a range of hammers near the top. Interesting that you appear to have got the left side cup out before removing the crank. Had the crank been a real bugger to shift, it might have made it all a bit wobbly to work on, plus there might have been fixed cup ballbearings all over the floor. But you got it done, so good to go


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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 11:50 am 
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Late '70s is late days for 120mm. rear end and those long Campag. rear dropouts, especially if this is a racing frame with 16 1/4" chainstays and close clearance, which I suspect it is, given that perforated bracket-shell, and lack of mudguard eyes, but not impossible. How wide is the bracket-shell? 27.2 seatpost?

Midlife- I suspect that there is not actually a 'step' between the back of the rear dropout and the seatstay- it's just a bit of missing blue((?) paint that gives that illusion, against a white background.

Most likely 70s, but is it early, mid, or late 70s?... because that might make a difference, depending on how closely you are trying to match components to the age of the frame. Anyway FWIW my guess is that this frame may be a few years older than the attached cranks...


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