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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 9:26 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
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Location: Cumbria
Colours.....when I first started in the early 70's it was all contrasting panels on head / seat tube / downtube with the decals on........never really thought that was any good and as the decade wore on the "Flam" finish was most popular (Flam=flamboyant) , firstly with the odd bit of contrasting colour and then usually just the one colour. There's a picture on here from Old Ned of a jigsaw with a Harry Quin in a Purple Flam

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=257707

Lovely colour :D and I see the frame has shot in stays and the cable guides in the wrong side for his brakes...........just like yours

Harry Quinn always did nice colours :D

My Woodrup was turquise Flam with chrome forks......

Towards the end of the 70's plain solid colours came in, maybe it was seen as more functional :)

Shaun


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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 9:45 pm 
retrobike rider
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Flam it is then, I'll have a cruise around the web and see what I can find, thanks very much.

EDIT: Three choices, Lime, Amber or Ruby Red.

I think Lime looks very much of that era.


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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 10:54 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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http://www.pelotonstore.com/21.12.2012/ ... -12473.jpg

http://veloaficionado.com/wp-content/up ... opouts.jpg

Top of the dropout has been flattened and blensed to the seat stay........does that make sense?

Shaun


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 6:38 am 
retrobike rider
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Looks like a pretty straightforward job.


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 1:21 pm 
rider | rBoTM Winner
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You're saying mid-70's but when did the over bracket rear mech cable guides get phased out in favour of under-bracket ones? Shot-in/fast back seat stays can be found in the 50's (Mercian Vigorelli for one). I think it was probably a very nice frame BITD and could be made good again. Use a cassette sealed bottom bracket otherwise you'll be cleaning the bearings out quite frequently! Because of these slots, I'd advise checking the lower ends of the seat and down tube for internal corrosion.


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 1:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 9:19 am
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Location: Sheffield, top city
I'd agree on late 70's. Be careful on choice of brakes, as the rear cable stop is on the right, so won't be suitable for campag etc which have the calipier arms on the other side. The frame might have had something like dia comps or weinmann 500's on it.

how about a french component choice - mafac centrpulls, stronglight chainset, simplex gears? A bit different to the normal (expensive) campag setup.

Or 1st gen dura ace/crane set up?


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 1:41 pm 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
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Location: New Forest, UK
My bet is that if you take your time and gently sand with some 400 grade sandpaper you will find the original transfers under that ghastly green paint. An hour so invested will allow you to solve the mystery of its origin and put the finishing touches to it when you repaint.


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 1:46 pm 
retrobike rider
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Thanks for the tip Ned, I'll give them a tap and see how they sound.

Pigman; nothings in or out at this stage and to be honest, the closer I can get to reproducing a typical clubmans bike, the happier I'll be. I do fancy keeping the crankset though. On the brakes, I was already thinking Weinmann 500 / 730 because of the cable routing.

Hamster: I did wonder about that, I'll give it a go.

One question for anyone is regarding a cable guide for the front mech. Oddly, a guide is installed for the rear mech but not for the front, although the fittings for twin levers are installed on the down tube (later addition?). My thought is either to have a matching guide installed before painting, or use a bolt on unit, which seem to be about, but a bit hard to find in the UK and very variable in price. Any thoughts?


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 4:08 pm 
rider | rBoTM Winner
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Just run the cable under the BB shell and out between the chainstays. With a Record style front mech this works fine. You could fit it into a short length of outer cable where it passes over the slots if it bothers you.


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 4:29 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Location: Cumbria
As Old ned says just lob it under the bottom bracket :)

Don't ask me why but this was quite common (the missing braze on for the front mech) and we were expected to use a band on guide.........

Have you seen Keithglos's post on how to remove stubborn cranks?


Shaun


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