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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 11:41 am 
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and thats all they are worth. Why ride the cheapest tyres you can buy? The point of contact between you and the road is the most important. There is a reason why the continental competition for example cost alot more than the vittoria rally, it is simply a better tyre.

This is one thing I will never understand. Same goes for car tyres why put the cheapest ones on. I did once and found a ditch as a result. Never again. Tyres are worth spending money on.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 2:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:12 pm
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Location: Barry
Well I jjust bought these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302190053306? ... EBIDX%3AIT

Cracking deal I reckon! Unfortunately I just want the rims! I have some Hope Pro3 hubs to rebuild them with. (I may leave the front to save money)


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 12:21 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 15, 2015 6:44 am
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Whilst I would not buy Rallys I still think that they are a better tyre than a cheap clincher. I believe that cycling provides us all a breadth of choice where (logic prevailing) a sensible compromise that fits our circumstances can be found. The only issues I really have are with manufacturers that charge a premium price for a product that is not truly premium. In this category I would unceremoniously lump all tubulars with butadiene liners rather than latex. Why? A butadiene liner is almost invariably heavier and stiffer than a latex liner. This causes more transmitted vibration (more road buzz) and from my limited experience is roughly equivalent to at least one tyre size and the appropriate inflation pressure adjustment

This lack of transmitted road buzz needs to be experienced before it will be valued, and is unfortunately exclusive to latex lined tubulars of larger dimension (25mm and up). But for me there is absolute joy in swooping along with zero road buzz on a set of 27mm Veloflex Vlaanderen at 80psi. The bonus here is that the experience is there to be had regardless of whether you are on an old steelie or a plastic fantastic (but maybe not an aluminium framed bike). Changing tyres to rediscover your bike is a whole lot cheaper than a new frameset.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2017 11:47 pm 
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It's funny, I visit a tri forum and (ignoring the tubular v clincher argument) conti tubs tubs have a crap reputation due to the butyl tube (unless you get the team issue / pro editions) and don't even mention tufo ... There a bigger sin than gatorskins ... :lol:

I have got Challenge crono's on the boras and have opted for Michelin pro 4's on the new wheels. Both have latex tubes :D

WD :D


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 3:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 11:11 pm
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Location: Letchworth Garden City
I've just bought a veloflex vlaanderan, whilst i know the latex tubes lose air at a rapid rate I've inflated to 100psi and less than 24 hours later it's down to about 30psi. I haven't actually glued it just prepping the tyre.
I've only ever used conti 4000sII/competition (can't remember what I had on my gp4s) so this hasn't been an issue before.
I'll check the extender I've just fitted but the Campag ones have a gasket on them so shouldn't be a problem there.
Any thoughts?
I'm a lazy sod so this is my first tub I'll be fitting, always either bought wheels with tyres fitted or got somebody else to do it.
Hoping not to make a hash of it.lol


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 10:46 pm 
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I used latex years ago in the MTB and couldn't see what all the airloss fuss was about, not realising the relationship between high volume and low pressure to the low volume and high pressure that you typically see on a road bike.

Fast forward a few years and I now know what the fuss was about ... :lol:

I have heard one psi per hour spoken about but in my experience, Challenge with stans is slower than this but Michelin with no sealant is a bit quicker.

Your airloss seems particularly high - I would check your valves and extensions are seated and sealed correctly.

For info, I have never needed to prestretch either make of tubs quoted above to fit them on Campag bora or Nextie rims, I have done nothing more than put about 50 psi in them prior to fitment - And that was only to check how round / how distorted they were.

WD :D


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 12:17 am 
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thanks, I thought it seemed unduly 'leaky', I haven't got around to checking the extension/valves.
looking forward to seeing how it rides.


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PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2017 11:06 pm 
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Conti tubs have one thing going for them. They are very durable and puncture resistant.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 11:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 12, 2017 11:51 am
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No comment.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 10:18 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat Aug 15, 2015 6:44 am
Posts: 50
If you are riding tubulars, then may I suggest a little 'trick' suggested by an old timer in Italy who used to be head mechanic for a pro-team. Add about a teaspoon of small glitter (yes the stuff the girlies use when playing fairies) to a bottle of Orange Seal and shake well. Then dispense about 20ml of Orange Seal + glitter into each tubular, inflate and spin.

The glitter helps 'block' punctures larger than pin pricks and the Orange Seal not only seals up minor leaks, but will reduce pressure drop in your tyres overnight, so not so much huffing and puffing with the pump each morning.

Happy riding


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