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PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2016 10:42 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat Aug 15, 2015 6:44 am
Posts: 73
Actually an even better solution conceptually is tubeless - although the Schwalbe Pro One tubeless has apparently proven to be less than ideal with regards to puncture resistance. The one reason I'd never ride on clinchers is the 'instant flat' issue. I've had a few mates over the years discover clincher flats on their front tyre just after they've tipped into a turn on decent. Usually that ends up with an ambulance ride. I reckon tubbies (and perhaps future developments of tubeless) are a preferred compromise. Changing tubbies every month? I got 12,000kms out of my last set of Veloflex Arenbergs and the Dugast Roubaix's are still 'like new' after about 400km half and half gravel and bitumen (as you should expect). I'd prefer to be 'inconvenienced' with tubbies a couple of times a year in order to avoid a single hospital trip.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2016 9:21 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2005 7:45 pm
Posts: 11039
Location: kent
Dugast have a tubular tyre which is also tubeless . was used at last year world cyclocross championship .


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2016 8:30 am 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:42 am
Posts: 3700
captnslow wrote:
Actually an even better solution conceptually is tubeless - although the Schwalbe Pro One tubeless has apparently proven to be less than ideal with regards to puncture resistance. The one reason I'd never ride on clinchers is the 'instant flat' issue. I've had a few mates over the years discover clincher flats on their front tyre just after they've tipped into a turn on decent. Usually that ends up with an ambulance ride. I reckon tubbies (and perhaps future developments of tubeless) are a preferred compromise.
Thing is, anything that would cause a conventional tyre/tube to go flat instantly, would probably be big enough to cause a tubeless tyre to go flat instantly as well, sealant can only do so much...... the only (slight) benefit is that tubeless tyres are (very slightly) less likely to roll off the rim. They'll still roll off under high loads, like cornering when flat. But might get you a bit further if you were riding in a straight line.

And in ~30 years of riding i've had one flat, not even a rapid deflation, that's put me on the deck...... i was down to walking pace before it wrapped itself round the crown of the fork. I've only seen one or two others.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 8:20 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 22, 2010 10:33 pm
Posts: 2237
Location: Suffolk
Actually no. I had a 20mm cut on a irc tubeless light tyres (its a race tyre only for smooth circuits) and it went down quickly but not instantly. There was time to reduce speed.

The solution to the schwanle one puncture problem is the irc tubeless tyres. These are difficult to cut even when riding on flint screwn bridleways and the like.

Riding with tubes is not dangerous but given most clinchers dont even do 1000 miles before i flat them (some mamge 20 miles) and most are trashed by the time i have done 1500 miles you can see why i like tyres that are comfy grippy roll well and last 3000+ miles. I have convinced a pro team next year to use them. It is my mission to consign inner tubes to a museam of curosities.

Irc actually have a tubular due soon. I should be getting a pair to test. I am hoping a for a tyre to be the conti competition.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2016 11:37 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:12 pm
Posts: 5606
Location: Barry
If I wanted to dip my toe in and try tubs what rims should I be looking at? Probably want to use 25c tyres maybe 28c. (Will likely be buying used on ebay)

EDIT: I could either go retro for my 126mm spaced MKM or modern for my 10 speed 130mm Merida.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2016 12:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 22, 2010 10:33 pm
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Location: Suffolk
Kinlin do the TB20 23mm wide 22mm deep. I have got them in 28H drilling currently. Quite hard to find but they are coming into country now. I will be bringing in other drillings next year. Cheap and fine rims. The TB25 is the other tubular rim they do but at 19mm wide is is very narrow I dont like it much)

Ambrosio Nemesis is a classic. Also the Ambrosio F20 is good for a front wheel. 20mm wide 14mm deep. Good rims but not exactly modern. I have a set of these and they ride just fine.

Hed Belgium C2 tubular 23mm wide 23mm deep expensive but the best tubular rims you can buy. I use a set they are lovely.

Mavic GP4's are good.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2016 2:43 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:12 pm
Posts: 5606
Location: Barry
Thankyou, lots of GP4s on ebay.

I have just bought some DA hubs and I'm weighing up tubs or tubeless rims.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 10:47 am 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2014 4:41 pm
Posts: 151
Location: Oslo Norway
I have been running Swalbe one tubular 27mm tires on Mavic GP4 this summer, The clearance was very tight om my Daccordi framed DBS, but very good tires and no issues running them om relatively narrow rims.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 9:18 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2010 8:22 am
Posts: 2223
Location: Warks
I've a few old Italian bikes with Martano, Nisi or Fiamme rims and I love them all...I use cheap Vittoria rally tubs £13 each.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 11:03 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:49 am
Posts: 516
Location: Hogland
I've been using Rally's ....Found Decathlon in Southampton have them in store for £12.99.


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