Retrobike Forum Index

It is currently Sun Dec 11, 2016 3:52 am

* Login   * Register * Search  * FAQ



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 62 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 7  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 11:03 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 4:43 pm
Posts: 33
Which bearing to be stripped and greased ? also where can i get Alexanders Brake Pads?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 1:05 pm 
Old School Grand Master
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 8247
Location: Cumbria
Frame number is a 1984 Raleigh, not sure about the marriage certificate though :)

Shaun


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 1:10 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Thu May 03, 2012 7:13 pm
Posts: 2574
Location: The Cock Inn, Tillett, Herts
Leevis wrote:
Which bearing to be stripped and greased ? also where can i get Alexanders Brake Pads?

Sorry, no such thing as Alexander's brake pads - that's an Apple predictive hiccup.

Wheel bearings, bottom bracket, and freehub.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 1:22 pm 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 2:19 am
Posts: 134
Location: North-East
on an old bike like that you are better off getting a new chain and rear screw on freewheel, it will make it ride like new (once the bottom bracket is greased, i normally get local bike shop to do the bottom bracket)

i would recommend the shimano 7-speed MFZ21 rear freewheel (then you will get more gears than you have now). if you upgrade to 7-speed you need to adjust the max limit screws on the rear mech to get the extra gears.

you can get Cane Creek brake lever hoods on ebay for cheap in that brown colour.

its a 18-23 steel raleigh frame, so its not one of the lighter weight reynolds frames, but still fairly good anyway.

a good way of getting rust off the frame is rub hard with a car cutting polish (i often find that the cheaper stuff from places like "wilkinsons" are more effective than T-cut)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 2:16 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 4:43 pm
Posts: 33
Awesome chaps.
Tell ya what mine has that i havent seen others have and thats the bottle holder AND the bottle :) Bottle was moved away from bike when i took the pics :)

Just been to local bike shop and they gave me an adjusting screw for the rear brake so i should have that working again very soon. Just the gears to sort out now

I will be back :)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 8:25 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 4:43 pm
Posts: 33
Hmmm gears are a bit of a nightmare. I have taken out the gear cable but when i manually shift (move) the rear derailleur i cannot seem to get it to start on the smallest 'cog' and then move over to the largest 'cog'. I can get it to start at the smallest one using the adjusting screws but from that start position i cannot get it to move across (using hands) to the largest 'cog'.

Anyone know what the issue is here? I thought that this derailleur moved the distance from the smallest to the largest cogs but it seems to be able to do this except when the starting point is the smallest one.

Bit wierd, not too sue what to do on this. Derailleur busted maybe?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 8:30 pm 
Old School Grand Master
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 8247
Location: Cumbria
Have you screwed both the screws down to the stops? Can you post a pic of the rear mech screws......

Shaun


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 9:07 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 4:43 pm
Posts: 33
I'll do it tomorrow, just started raining large here. Just to confirm though, i will screw both down to the stops and take a picture.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 3:53 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 4:43 pm
Posts: 33
OK
Screwed in both of the screws and tooks some pics. One thing now though, i cannot pull the gear change lever (not sure if its the tightening of the screws that have done this) i am a bit clueless on this whole gear thing here.
http://s452.photobucket.com/user/Leevis ... 8.jpg.html
http://s452.photobucket.com/user/Leevis ... 2.jpg.html
http://s452.photobucket.com/user/Leevis ... 1.jpg.html
http://s452.photobucket.com/user/Leevis ... 9.jpg.html
Help


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 5:01 pm 
Old School Grand Master
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 8247
Location: Cumbria
If memory serves me the top screw is Low (L) and the bottom one is High (H), as you unscrew the top one the mechanism should be able to move forther inward as the mechanism is alowed to travel inwards. keep on unscrewing until it lines up with and changes to the largest cog........whilst pedalling.

The natural spring of the mechanism pushes it towards the smallest cog.

You cant just push it easilly with your fingers as the spring is quite strong so you need to use the levers, never really needed to change by hand but you need to apply quite a bit of pressure.

Does this help?

Shaun


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 62 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 7  Next

All times are UTC [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

About Us

Follow Retrobike

Other cool stuff

All content © 2005-2015 Retrobike unless otherwise stated.
Cookies Policy.
bikedeals - the best bike deals in one place
FatCOGS - Fat Chance Owner's Group

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group