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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 11:03 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:17 pm
Posts: 3775
Location: Norn Iron
Re-anodising - i was sent this info from an RB member who might perhaps post further info -

Removing anodising is really easy. You need only about 10-15% lye solution. Here in Finland you can buy suitable lye solution from the grocery. This solution is normally used to clear slow running sinks. Then put the part which you want to strip to solution and it helps little bit if you brush item little bit. There forms some hydrogen gas so this is best to do in well ventilated area. Lye is also very caustic so good rubber gloves are needed. Stripping doesn't take long time, if you leave aluminium part in the lye for too long time it will will dissolve totally in it. So keep the part only for example in 20 seconds or so at first and take it out and wash in fresh water. It is quite easy to see when anodisation is stripped off. When anodisation is stripped it is very much easier to sand scratches off and polish item.

Anodising is not very complicated process but it needs some practising. You need about 25% sulphuric acid (battery acid for example) and adjustable power supply. I have radio controlled model airplanes and I have a good battery charger which I can use as a adjustable power supply. The part to be anodised have to be polished and free of any greases. At first part will put to the 10% or so lye solution for the very short time. Positive wire of the power source is connected to the part to be anodised. Negative wire is connected to aluminum plate (cathode) whose surface area is about same than the part to be anodised. Then the aluminum plate and the part is put to the 25% container where is 25% sulph,uric acid and they must not to be in contact each other. The anodising current depends on the surface are of the part to be anodised. It should be about 10-20 mA per every 1cm2 surface area. Anodising time is about 30-45min but there are many parameters like temperature, current etc. which affects to the process. One thing is also important. Wires going to the part which will be anodised and to the cathode must be aluminium or titanium.

After anodising is done, parts have to be boiled in hot water about 20min or so. This closes the pores in anodised surface. Before boiling it is possible to dye part with colors. I haven't tried coloring yet but it should be easy with dylon cloth dying colors.

I would be interested if anyone tries this.

Richard


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 1:33 pm 
rider | rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:42 pm
Posts: 5131
Location: Wakefield, Yorkshire
Have a look here -

http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml

Might be some assistance :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:25 pm 
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:28 pm
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Location: Mansfield Woodhouse, Nott's.
Midlife wrote:
There was someone on here who anodised some of his Raleigh Record Sprint bits back to gold :)
I'd love to have a go at that :D Shaun

The guy needs reminding! We asked him if he would do a full run-down of how to do it correctly.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 12:39 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2012 2:08 pm
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Location: Shrewsbury
A brilliant guide, like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. It would be worth having a 'Restoration' section to collect all the useful guides like this one. Once they drop down the queue they seem to disappear into obscurity!

I found the spec sheet for Oven Pride and its mainly Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda) if anyone was planning on stripping a lot of parts you can buy a kilo of Sodium Hydroxide pearls on Ebay for a £5, plus a bit of a hammering on the new postage rates!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 5:43 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Wed May 16, 2012 8:28 pm
Posts: 84
Location: Seattle, WA USA
Wow, nicely done. Thanks for the details.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:41 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2010 8:23 pm
Posts: 49
That's a great walk through! I've been loathe to de-anodize using chemicals, as I live in a small apartment without a real workshop. So, my solution is to simply sand off the anodized layer with 150 grit, and follow the same process from there (150, 600, steel wool, polish, wax). However, I've only done small bits so far... When it gets to doing crank arms etc. I might just give this a go!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:24 pm
Posts: 295
Stunning work - I've got a pair of identical levers in need of similar attention.

It would be really useful (to me!) if you could explain how you removed the blades from their mounts ? I managed to get the pins to move a couple of mm in/out, but I didn't have the confidence to keep hitting the punch!

I've only had to use Oven Pride on one of the components on my build - the derailleur cage, but I was really impressed with the results - shame it didn't clean the oven as well.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:16 pm 
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Quote:

It would be really useful (to me!) if you could explain how you removed the blades from their mounts ? I managed to get the pins to move a couple of mm in/out, but I didn't have the confidence to keep hitting the punch!

.


There is a small grub screw that has to be removed before you punch out the pin.


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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:52 pm
Posts: 335
Location: Enniskillen
Montello wrote:
Quote:

It would be really useful (to me!) if you could explain how you removed the blades from their mounts ? I managed to get the pins to move a couple of mm in/out, but I didn't have the confidence to keep hitting the punch!

.


There is a small grub screw that has to be removed before you punch out the pin.



Here are some picture of the said part.


Attachments:
File comment: Here is a pic of the grub screw in place.
Grub 1.jpg
Grub 1.jpg [ 84.86 KiB | Viewed 613 times ]
File comment: Remove it with a hex key
Grub 2.jpg
Grub 2.jpg [ 117.78 KiB | Viewed 613 times ]
File comment: Some campag levers dont have the screw, This is 1989 Athena. I havent tried to remove these lever blades before so I cant comment on those.
WP_000957.jpg
WP_000957.jpg [ 71.24 KiB | Viewed 613 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:08 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:52 pm
Posts: 335
Location: Enniskillen
citrixccea wrote:
Stunning work - I've got a pair of identical levers in need of similar attention.

It would be really useful (to me!) if you could explain how you removed the blades from their mounts ? I managed to get the pins to move a couple of mm in/out, but I didn't have the confidence to keep hitting the punch!

I've only had to use Oven Pride on one of the components on my build - the derailleur cage, but I was really impressed with the results - shame it didn't clean the oven as well.



If you want to send them to me I'd be happy to restore them for you. I assume they are for the Dave Rayner Raleigh Bananna build. I wouldn't mind contributing to this. Send me a pm if you like....

Stephen


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