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 Post subject: wheel rebuilding help
PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 8:46 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 8:08 pm
Posts: 21
Hopefully someone will know the answer to this as I am a bit stuck, trying to rebuild a wheel, I need to use the existing parts as they are rare. When the spokes are being tightened the spoking flange on one side is moving almost freely, there is not enough resistance to correctly tighten the spokes.

Is there a trick I can use to secure the spoking flange?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 10:05 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Sun Jun 24, 2012 10:27 pm
Posts: 390
Location: London
here's one source of wheelbuilding: http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
and here is a link to a e-book that you can purchase (I highly recommend this one): http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 10:11 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 6:31 pm
Posts: 1111
Hey,

If you can find it, the Barnett Manual's section on wheel building is the best source I've found.
It's nicely broken down into small steps and I found it much clearer than Sheldon Brown's site.

Not sure what you mean with spoking flange but it sort of sounds like a spoke that is too long.
If it's a rear wheel with gears, the drive side and non-drive side spokes are different lengths to
accommodate the freewheel or cassette, so you need to sort them carefully.

Alternatively, it might be that there was a different spoking pattern (e.g. the spokes cross over four
instead of three times).

Not sure if that helps, but they were two mistakes I've made in my attempts at wheel building.

Johnny


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 6:27 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 8:08 pm
Posts: 21
the issue is the part that you lace the spokes through on the hub is moving, not rotating but moving horizontally away from the centre of the hub so rather than pulling the rim in when tightening the spokes the flange just moves. (by flange I refer to the part of the hub that one end of the spokes rest in) Hopefully that makes more sense.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 6:42 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:07 pm
Posts: 1321
Location: Cotswolds
B H Airlite hubs did this quite frequently. It will have no effect when the spokes are tensioned, they will hold it in place. If you have used the old spokes you have the right length as long as you have the correct number of crosses.
Perhaps you could tell us a bit more about make of hubs and rims. If 32 front and 40 rear then usually 32 is crossed 3 times and 40 4 times.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 8:10 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 8:08 pm
Posts: 21
it is a childs tricycle, it is a 14inch wheel. No make on the hub or the rim, (or the frame or any components) It has solid rubber tyres. This wheel is the worst condition one, so I think I will strip one of the others and see if its the same, (they all need stripping anyway).

Thanks for all the replies


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 8:21 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:07 pm
Posts: 1321
Location: Cotswolds
See what you mean now, most old junevile hubs were very poor. I wonder if you could run some hard setting resin around it. It's certainly not for serious road use. I would braze it on, if it was mine.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 9:52 am 
Devout Dirtbag
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Joined: Fri Dec 26, 2008 5:48 pm
Posts: 133
Location: London
keithglos wrote:
See what you mean now, most old junevile hubs were very poor. I wonder if you could run some hard setting resin around it. It's certainly not for serious road use. I would braze it on, if it was mine.


Yes, those hubs are very low quality, would try with Araldite or similar, once the spokes are in tension the flange will keep there.
Make sure the resin will cure completely, give it 24hrs minimum, as on a 14" you've to bend the spokes a bit, to make them cross, hence you may stress and move the flange


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