Retrobike Forum Index

It is currently Sat Dec 10, 2016 2:04 pm

* Login   * Register * Search  * FAQ



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 15 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 4:13 pm 
rider | rBoTM Winner
rider | rBoTM Winner
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:42 pm
Posts: 5133
Location: Wakefield, Yorkshire
I doubt if there is sufficient space between the inside of the head tube and the outside of the steerer to clear a pop rivet. Spokesman's copper (or alloy) rivet peened over on the inside in some way is the best bet.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 4:27 pm 
rBoTM Winner
rBoTM Winner
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:28 pm
Posts: 3104
Location: Mansfield Woodhouse, Nott's.
Pop rivets would look horrible IMO ! and only should be seen on Rally Cars !!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 6:06 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2012 4:41 pm
Posts: 417
Location: Moneyscalp N.Ireland
"insert a small length of 1" metal tubing in the head tube until it rests on the upper rivet and tap gently......you'll find the rivets pop undone this way quite easily"

Old Ned wrote:
I doubt if there is sufficient space between the inside of the head tube and the outside of the steerer to clear a pop rivet. Spokesman's copper (or alloy) rivet peened over on the inside in some way is the best bet.


.......have done this method successfully many times, maybe I should have clarified that after removing the locknut and upper bearing race you simply just drop the forks out first to allow access to rivets


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 9:02 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 6:31 pm
Posts: 1112
Thanks everyone, it's off now. Used Excel's tube and hammer approach for the top rivet, but had to use Midlife's file technique for the lower one because there wasn't enough metal on the inside of the rivet for the hammer technique to work.

Was a pretty nerve-wracking experience, was afraid the wafer thin bit of brass at the end of the badge would not hold up,
but I was very careful and got away with it. Its from a bike from 1928 so it's not like I could replace the badge with a new one if something went wrong.

Will probbaly use RobbieD's tip when it comes to replace the badge.

Thanks for the tips.

Johnny


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 4:22 pm 
rBoTM Winner
rBoTM Winner
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:18 pm
Posts: 2373
Location: California
I replaced the rivets on a recent build with brass screws, looks very nice and a lot easier to deal with.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 15 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: fossala, Frizzaldo, Old Ned and 62 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

About Us

Follow Retrobike

Other cool stuff

All content © 2005-2015 Retrobike unless otherwise stated.
Cookies Policy.
bikedeals - the best bike deals in one place
FatCOGS - Fat Chance Owner's Group

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group