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 Post subject: Freewheel Maintenance
PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 3:56 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:17 pm
Posts: 3775
Location: Norn Iron
Morning all,

I have had a couple of strange freewheels problems lately and i am wondering about this -

If i clean a freewheel with degreaser some of it gets inside the freewheel possibly degreasing amd removing the grease/oil inside - what is the easiest way to replace whatever lubrication is within the freewheel?

Thanks,

Richard


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 12:11 pm 
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Location: Enniskillen
Take it apart Richard. It's not that difficult. Leave the freewheel on the wheel. Remove the sprockets using a chain whip. Secure the wheel and using a large pointed object (nail punch or similar). There shoud be 2 indentations on the lockring. Tap the lockring around to release from the body. Just be careful with that lockring. It is usually a reverse thread. And when you lift the body away have the wheel sitting over a bucket to catch all the little tiny ball bearings that fall out....Clean everything and pack the bearings back in with grease and reassemble, it's as easy as wetting the ....


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 2:31 pm 
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Location: Norn Iron
Thanks for that. Would i be right in saying that if i happen to have used a lot of degreaser and it has gotten inside the freewheel and perhaps removed all the grease, no amount of oil will protect the mechanism?

I should explain that i have 3 freewheels -

1. fell apart after some cleaning into two pieces ( the end 'cap' must have been lose before i started) - ball bearings all over the floor - and i am not sure if i have recovered them all. Upon checking the interior there seemed to be no grease or lubrication present - this is a 5sp Regina freewheel on an old wheel which may not have been used for years

2. very dirty Suntour freewheel which i (probably wrongly) bathed in degreaser and i suspect, effectively washed all the grease from

3. dirty Suntour freewheel which i was reasonably careful with when cleaning but once i had the sprockets spotless and i spun it on my finger all was very quiet. I have lubricated this one with a very light oil and it continues to be quiet but i thought that the actual oil may be deadening the clicking. My worry about this one is that when used i will lose the oil and damage may occur due to lack of lubrication.

The remainder of my freewheels with be subject to a more thoughtful approach in future, but No 3 above is needed for my Rapide so it is a priority to get get right.

Thanks, i hope everyone is enjoying their weekend - dry and nice here and, typically, i am on night shift!!!

Richard


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 7:48 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:07 pm
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Location: Cotswolds
First, these freewheels should not have grease inside, you do not want to drag the chain.
If the small cogs obscure the end bearing plate, you will need 2 chain whips. slacken the end plate then remove the freewheel, and drop it apart where you have control over it.
I used to reassemble with light oil inside, and light grease on the bearings with the hope that this might repel water.
I had some useful clips to hold the pawls in place from the back, but you can use a screwdriver, but it is so much easier to do this off the wheel.
Normally 1/8 inch bearings.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 8:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
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Location: Cumbria
Only ever used 3-in-one oil for freewheels and found if I needed to take them apart then this was done off the bike over a washing up bowl.

I used to use thread to keep the pawls in place and then pull it out.

BITD by the time the freewheel wore out the chain needed replacing and I simply changed the "block and chain" :) Maybe if I had a penny for every work card that read "new block and chain" I would have more money in the bank LOL

Shaun


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 8:23 pm 
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Location: Norn Iron
Good stuff, thanks all. I had a notion that heavier oil - like 3-in-1 may be the answer.

Enjoy the rest of your weekend!!!

Richard


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 8:35 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:07 pm
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Location: Cotswolds
Agree with Shaun, back in the 50/60's a block and chain was £1.11.6d (£1.57p), I used to reckon ten minutes, never any labour charge as I was getting abot 13 shillings (65p) out of it, at a time when £15 a week was good money.
We used a layer of grease on the outside of the block on our own bikes hopefully to keep water out, i suppose now it is better to see it clean with rusty bearings.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 11:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
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Location: Cumbria
Bike repairs BITD 1970's did keep us ticking over in the background.

"profit" on bikes was 28% and on other things 50%, bikes sold with 10% discount (aside from the new credit cards and Club Cheques) so that's 18% profit on bike sales.

Not sure if it's the same today but a bike shop here in Carlisle has done nicely for years on the repair / wheels side of things, not competing with the shops who sell bikes.

Something I have mentioned to Tel.

Shaun

PS I have a sneaking suspicion that Sturmey Archer bought the rights for 3 in 1 oil and marketed it as their own for gears.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 11:30 pm 
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Location: Norn Iron
Far be it for me to have an opinion but was Sturmey Archer not owned by Raleigh?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 12:16 am 
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Location: Cumbria
Seem to remember that Ti (Tube Investments) owned Raleigh, Reynolds tubing, Sturmey Archer, Brooks Saddles and a shed load more..


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