DunlopTubularRepairOutfit.A.jpg [ 143.35 KiB | Viewed 169 times ]
I've still got the tins and contents of the Dunlop tub repair kits. Needle, curved 'guard' to help prevent stabbing the tube when resewing, heavy duty thread. Well used in the past and, if necessary, will be used again in the future. My tips are -
1 - Use the tip of a warmed old table knife to 'melt' the adhesive gluing the base tape for a short length on one side in order to be able to get hold of the tape to pull it away.
2 - Mark with biro etc, some lines across the existing stitching before cutting (a sharp craft knife etc.) to help lining up when restitching. Completely remove the bits of old thread
3 - Don't make the 'access' hole to long, the shorter the better, just enough to get the tube out. It won't matter if you 'pull' it a bit.
4 - Try not to cut the fabric of the tyre carcase when cutting the stitching.
5 - Use the existing stitch holes in the carcase when restitching (with heavy duty waxed thread used double) - and don't pull to tight, just enough to bring the edges together securely.
6 - Extend the new restitching slightly over the 'ends' of the gap made in the carcase by at least one stitch.
7 - Use the old stitch holes for the new stitches, don't try to make new ones. Use the previously 'biroed' lines as a guide to getting everything back 'square'.
8 - If there is a 'chafing tape' over the stitching inside the tubular (almost always on light tyres) then try to get it to go back in position when restitching.
9 - Try VERY hard NOT to stick the needle through the tube! Sort of defeats the object of the exercise if you do.
All this was second nature to us lads in the 60's and 70's when tubs were in everyday use for training, racing and going to school/work.
In the end, despite following all the above, if may well be that the tyre won't run dead straight on the rim when refitted. However, it will still perform perfectly well as a spare at worst.
Today is the yesterday of tomorrow.