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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 6:13 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 12:22 pm
Posts: 1994
Location: North Ayrshire
does anyone have one of these hubs to compare the cone flange marked in this photo?

Image

the trouble with it is that i can't get the shimano cassette lock ring tool past it to tighten the lock ring up against the cassette. you can probably make out from the photo that the cone flange is too wide in diameter to allow the tool past it to engage with the toothed edge of the cassette lock ring.

never had this problem with a cassette before and the only thing i can think is that the cone isnt' the original one for the hub, yet it fits perfectly when adjusted up and doesn't look out of place.

i'm stumped!!

craig :?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 8:20 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 1:05 pm
Posts: 154
Location: Wales
This actually happens quite alot with the modern lower-end shimano gear that I have worked with in a cycle shop. The answer has always been to take that nut off, fit the cassette and then re-fit the nut, adjusting the cones properly. It makes the operation slightly more time consuming and irritating but rest assured, your problem isn't uncommon.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 11:16 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2005 7:45 pm
Posts: 10944
Location: kent
is the cone much bigger than the tool ?

grind it a little bit .


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 11:37 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 12:12 am
Posts: 1513
Location: Gold Coast Australia
I have a few of those hubs and never had a problem so I would assume it is non standard , I can't however get an everest freewheel tool over the locknut on some old nouvo tipos bought on ebay but maybe thats a hub age thing ?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 10:23 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 12:22 pm
Posts: 1994
Location: North Ayrshire
i got by the problem with putting the cassette on to the freehub body without the axle in place. the alternative was to grind the axle cone down to a smaller diameter. many thanks for your ideas.

:)


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 3:16 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 11:11 pm
Posts: 1134
Location: Letchworth Garden City
the cone should be a shade under 19mm.
just a thought but you might have been using a freewheel remover and not a cassette remover, there is a slight difference in width even though the lockring's often take both..


Last edited by tonyf39 on Thu Feb 14, 2013 9:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 7:02 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:50 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Cork
Had these hubs many years ago, and you must release the cone on the opposite non-drive side of the hub.
If you intend to remove the freehub body, then you will need a special splined tool for the dura-ace...The cheaper hubs of the same vintage only require a 10mm allen key to remove the freehub body from the hub shell.. Plus the dura-ace freehub body of these 7400 series hubs is NOT compatible with the cheaper ultegra or 105 of the same vintage...


http://forums.roadbikereview.com/compon ... 56881.html


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:22 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 12:22 pm
Posts: 1994
Location: North Ayrshire
yes i used to work with these hubs in my daily working life so know
them inside out - just that i have never encountered this problem
with the drive side cone having this wide diameter flange on it.
i literally cannot get the cassette removal tool past it to engage
with the splined lockring. anyway, i followed the earlier advice stating
that i should take the axle out from the offside and tighten the
cassette with the axle out of the way.

hey bingo!

:D


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 1:08 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2007 2:04 pm
Posts: 3364
Location: Completely in the dark, thanks to me good mate Terry....
I've got an 8sp DA cassette hub, looks similar to yours and have never had any bother re. lockrings. Although having said that I use a Sachs-Maillard splined freewheel tool rather than a Shimano lockring tool for any tightening/loosening operations. Probably bad practice (same spline pattern mind) but it seems to work OK.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:26 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 12:22 pm
Posts: 1994
Location: North Ayrshire
and do you have that big odd looking cone plate on the freehub side too?
it's actually part of the gear side cone itself...


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