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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:52 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:17 pm
Posts: 3775
Location: Norn Iron
Torqueless,

I have a set of Wolber Alpines in 'reasonable' order - i should check if they are tubs or not, and i was not jesting in the previous post.

I think your calculations are sound but i was wondering for completness if you had a pair of 'dividers' - or something similar you could place them over the rim edge and measure the distance at the other end. These'dividers' are like ones used in wood turning and i do not know the correct name for them. Imagine two rods connected together with a pivot in the centre. The distance between the ends will always be the same hence you can measure the thickness by using one end of them by measuring the distance at the other. The rods are curved to allow for this. If this is badly explained (which i think it is) apologies. After a quick check these may, i stress MAY, be called proportinal calipers!

If you are still awake, i agree with your comment about the Module E being more appealing!

Perhaps i should stick to commenting about items and not how to measure them.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 3:16 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:10 pm
Posts: 667
TGR I know exactly the instrument you mean, (which also means your descriptive powers are better than you think) but cannot lay hands on it..as usual, I am improvising! How many spoke holes in your Wolber rims?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 3:22 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Location: Norn Iron
Torqueless,

I am at work and cannot see them from here! If i can find one of the dividers i mentioned i could loan it to you, if that is your wish.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 11:00 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:17 pm
Posts: 3775
Location: Norn Iron
Torqueless,

My mistake they are clinchers 36 hole, I have already identified the body part I resemble and it is on the Brooks!

Could you send another pic of your headset equipment for me, I have the threaded bar and I want to see the other bits, sizes would be helpful.

I feel I should say sorry - yet again, for being an ****.

Thanks for your help Torqueless and your insight


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 3:12 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:10 pm
Posts: 667
No worries TGR... I often resemble that anatomical feature myself, and have been told so... unequivocally, more than once.. :)

Here is a pic. of my improvised headset press, unassembled.


Image
I actually have about three dozen of these that I made up as woodwork clamps a few years back. It was only when casting around for something to press a headset home that I realised one of them would be ideal. This one is now my dedicated headset press, given that it is likely to get a bit greasy in that application!

The studding is M8 I think, but anything (within reason) will do. You may need a longer length for big frames. A couple of washers and nuts, one of which can be a wingnut if you like! The wooden cylinders are 1" thick and 1 3/4" in diameter. Best use Hardwood if you can. If you were making these you may as well make them 2" diameter... 1 3/4" is just big enough on my headset(s). These wooden bits are drilled to be a loose/sliding fit on the studding. Really there is no need for them to be cylindrical, or any particular thickness.. Large metal washers would do just as well. FWIW I didn't even need to use a spanner with this to press my bottom cup/top race (one at a time) home, but those cups are old...YMMV.

Just improvising, you know... I've used a sash-cramp as a headset press in the past. A King-size G-cramp would do it too..


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:41 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:17 pm
Posts: 3775
Location: Norn Iron
Torqueless,

Thanks for the pics and advice. Would you like me to search for the 'dividers' - i am pretty sure i have seen a set in my father's garage - although it might take a while to locate them.


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