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 Post subject: Frame Saver
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 5:59 pm 
PoTM Winner
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Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:21 pm
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Well I have my bike back for the paint shop :D

The guy advised using a "frame saver" to go inside the tubes.

Anyone have any experience of this?

I have found this stuff ....
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/ ... aver-10220

Any thoughts.

WD40 or standard oil was suggested also ...

Finally, once done do you plug the holes in the seat stays?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 7:17 pm 
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 11:54 am
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Location: Derby
I always use it.
heated wax oil is even better but is messy.
How good is it? You will never know.I has to be better than bare metal.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 7:28 pm 
PoTM Winner
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Any tips for use, I wish I had done this BEFORE i had had the frame painted ...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:21 pm 
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 11:54 am
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Location: Derby
Montello wrote:
Any tips for use, I wish I had done this BEFORE i had had the frame painted ...


No good that way round as the oven would have evaporated any treatment.
Wax oil or frame saver sold by a good LBS does not harm the paint.Well it never has for me at any rate.Always read the can :wink:

Frame save is a spray can with a thin tube {like wd 40}
Wax oil :I buy in spray can form.I stand the can in warm water first.
Turn frame round while spraying inside.This allows liquid the move about inside.


Last edited by bagpuss on Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: frame protection
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:26 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 10:55 pm
Posts: 392
Location: YORKSHIRE
Hi.
I dilute wax oil with parafin and use a hand garden spray bottle to get it in to the tubes.You will need to hang the frame up for a couple of days to let it drain. Had you done it before the spray work you would probably have caused problems. A bit of it creeping on to the steel during spraying would make a very good release agent and cause possible major problems.As it is it soon cleans of the paint and seems to have no long term effects whatsoever. The spray will allow you to get it in through the blow holes in the stays. Make sure the seat tube has drained well and wipe the top bit where your seat pin goes in before applying normal grease ( providing its not a carbon pin).Done a few now and it has always seemed to work well
Regards
Peter


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:39 pm 
PoTM Winner
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Ok, thanks gents. Don't have these problems/challenges on my carbon bikes.

I think I'll get a can of frame saver.

Do you plug the small holes in the stays after?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:47 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2012 3:33 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Derby
JP Weigle is by far the best to use! :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 9:17 pm 
retrobike rider
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Location: A wretched hive of scum and villainy...
Quote:
Do you plug the small holes in the stays after?

Personally, I do. Usually a good little plug of candle wax to keep the weather out, the Framesaver will protect from any internal condensation.

Don't forget to do the brake and chainstay bridges if they are tubular, too.

It will stain light paint finishes, so mask, plug and have plenty of absorbent rag at the ready.

All the best,


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:56 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
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Location: Cumbria
Just a curious question.....in the 70's there were no products like frame saver. When did they come about ?

Shaun


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 1:12 am 
retrobike rider
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Location: A wretched hive of scum and villainy...
I first came across Framesaver about 18 years ago, but also used various sorts of shelac/waxoyl type stuff too. I've mended a few 40s and 50s frames full of some sort of black tar etc. so people were trying to rustproof their frames.

Even 531C or Columbus SL had thick enough main tube walls (0.7-0.8mm) that rust wasn't seen as a problem in the early 80s. Then along cane stuff like Columbus EL, Genius, 753, True Temper OX and Tange Prestige, with tube walls down to 0.5mm. A little rust could reduce the thickness by 20% pretty easily. Even the acid etch of chrome plating was seem as dangerous, hence the rise of stainless steel frame ends and lugs.
Down to 0.3mm on Reynolds 953 top tubes these days. :shock:

Similarly, chainstay walls have reduced from 1-0.8mm down to 0.5ish on plenty of the lighter steel tubesets these days.

Thankfully, many of the modern high grade steels (Nivacrom, Niobium, 853 etc.) are also pretty rust resistant. Framesaver's still a good insurance poicy, though.
Then of course there's always the fully stainless tubing Reynolds 953, 931, Columbus XCr and KVA.

All the best,


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