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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 10:32 pm 
rBoTM Winner
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Location: Mansfield Woodhouse, Nott's.
Montello wrote:
What grades of wet n dry did you work through? Did do it wet or dry?


I used at first 600 grade paper to remove the anodising.
when I was happy with it, it was onto 800 grade.
when happy again. Onto 1000 grade to flatten out the surface and remove the scratch's out the alloy.
Then used 1200 grade to smooth the surface.
Then onto 2000 grade to have a super smooth surface.

Then gave the alloy a real good buffing by the use of Brasso and some good old thick socks :D

Used the paper in wet form and soaked for at least 10 minutes before use.

Every grade I used fresh clean warm soapy water and constantly cleaning the paper to ensure free of any bits.

Doing it this way ensures a super smooth chrome like quality finish.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 1:44 pm 
PoTM Winner
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Thanks for the tips ... here is my polishing effort ...

This represents about 4 hours of messy rubbing ...

http://www.lejog4amr.co.uk/pinarello/my ... bars.shtml


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 2:11 pm 
rBoTM Winner
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Montello wrote:
Thanks for the tips ... here is my polishing effort ..


Rocking mate 8) at first I thought the first picture was mine too...lol

Your last pictures just looked my bars before the loving attention :cry:


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 2:39 pm 
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Ian Raleigh wrote:
Montello wrote:
Thanks for the tips ... here is my polishing effort ..


Rocking mate 8) at first I thought the first picture was mine too...lol

Your last pictures just looked my bars before the loving attention :cry:


They come up well, I think I can clean up the pantographing on the stem some more ...

The bars were a bit of a balaning act so as to not erase the Cinelli engraving.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 4:02 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Location: Norn Iron
Lovely work, a lot of elbow grease involved. I hope mine can get somewhere close.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 10:08 pm 
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Location: Enniskillen
Quote:
I use this to remove tuff anodising and the old product can be bottled back up and re-used again and again.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-X-OVEN-PRID ... 20b32bcb5d




How long do you leave the part in the oven pride for Ian?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:41 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Location: Norn Iron
Hi Kettlo.

Ballymena here!!! Not sure if you are joking about Ian's oven cleaner but i read 4 minutes somewhere OR until it turns black. I have not had to resort to using it yet but i bought a pack and it has pride of place in the garage. My wife asked me about it, she thinks i have lost the plot ....


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 10:49 am 
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Caustic Soda is the active ingredient in oven cleaner, so I just bought some of that: you'll find it with other drain unblocking products, cheaper than oven cleaner too.

Just a matter of minutes, depending on the quality of the anodising.

The fumes are pretty nasty so use it in a well ventilated space.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 11:20 pm 
rBoTM Winner
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Location: Mansfield Woodhouse, Nott's.
kettlo wrote:
Quote:
I use this to remove tuff anodising and the old product can be bottled back up and re-used again and again.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-X-OVEN-PRID ... 20b32bcb5d

How long do you leave the part in the oven pride for Ian?


You best keeping an eye on the stuff and keep the alloy part covered and as TGR says maybe 5 minutes at the most
but for god-sakes don't leave it on for hours or over night as the black oxidising is a bitch to get off.

Some cheap anodising can come off within seconds of this stuff touching it.


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