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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 7:24 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2009 8:16 pm
Posts: 3473
Location: north wales
Here are some photos of the stripped frame
A bit of work still to be done to clean it all
Then wet or dry treatment
A friend of mine is a motor vehicle sprayer,he says it will take laquer on the steel
But would have to add etched primer for the painted bits.


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Unknown 50s frameset 007.jpg
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 7:26 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Location: north wales
Some more photos


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Unknown 50s frameset 005.jpg
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Unknown 50s frameset 008.jpg
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 9:33 pm 
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If it were my frame and I wanted to keep the bare metal look I would have it soda blasted then primed and lacquered


Don't get it sand blasted as that is too course


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 9:40 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2009 8:16 pm
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Location: north wales
I don't quite follow what you mean by priming and then laquer.
I thought primer came in different colours????
I would love to get the bare metal look polished and clear lacquered.
Sorry for being a pain.
Malc
PS what's astonishing is the weight is so light


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 10:55 pm 
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You can not lacquer on top of bare metal the lacquer won't bond to the tubes, you need to use some sort of primer. If you have a local car paint shop go in and speak with them and they will be able to advise what products are available in your area.


Try this link for details


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 9:26 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2017 9:01 am
Posts: 1
Hi Cipolinni,

I Think thats a Monark. I got one my self that Im trying to find out more about.

See this link for more info about the bike. http://www.ridenice.se/Cykel_Monark.html

Its in Swedish but maybe you get some information out of it.

Mine has the exact same numbers and I Think its a 1973s Monark.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 10:45 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:07 pm
Posts: 1423
Location: Cotswolds
This frame has to be about mid 50s. If the numbers you refer to are under the bottom bracket they are Nervex identity, not frame.
I nearly made a comment about the forks being later, but reread the thread, and had forgotten about the Pennine CO2 pump braze on.

Keith


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 8:12 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 4:05 pm
Posts: 281
Location: Kent / SE London
cipolinni wrote:
I would love to get the bare metal look polished and clear lacquered.


I'm working on a "raw steel" bike too, a rod braked roadster :oops:

Have a Google there's a fair bit of info out there. LFGSS has some good stuff. Most of it points in the direction that it WILL rust. Whatever people say and however good those freshly powdercoated bike photos look.

The lacquer finishes chip and don't have UV protection. Powder coat lifts and tears. Both are then a job to get off again. It's a personal decision, based on how you plan on maintaining it?

I'm all set to give it a rub down with Gibbs, and then give it a few coats of boiled lineseed oil.

The idea is that when the rust gets excessive, I can easily rub down with some wire wool and methylated spirit. Should allow me to touch up any partial areas, without stripping the whole thing down. The oil should dry hard, but it will still rust/"marble" a little underneath.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 9:12 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 11:37 am
Posts: 874
Location: On the move !
Rear ends being pressed would tend to suggest earlier, as forged ends almost replaced them by 1960.

I have a Ephgrave frame from I believe "1951" that has identical rear pressed ends and I mean "identical" could have been twins separated at birth ;) not sure if that helps much with dating but thought it worth throwing into the pot ;)

Mick


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 9:41 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2013 12:41 am
Posts: 110
For what it's worth, Jack Taylor's had their serial numbers on LH rear dropouts, but number 290 would maybe be too early? Possibly pre-war even?


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