Retrobike Forum Index

It is currently Tue Dec 06, 2016 7:01 pm

* Login   * Register * Search  * FAQ



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Totally Devastated!!!
PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 2:05 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2012 8:55 pm
Posts: 13
Hi all :(

Well something bad has happened, or I think its bad.. hopefully you will clarify my fear, that indeed it IS bad!!

I was about to head out on the Dawes this afternoon.. The bloody headtube is cracked :( ... You can see the fork through the headtube... thats how bad it is (ill post pics if required for anyone who would like to let me know if its broken or fixable). The crack runs pretty much right around the headtube.. My freind said its possible it could be welded?

Im utterly devastated!!??

Please help!
Thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 2:10 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 11:04 pm
Posts: 1800
Location: A wretched hive of scum and villainy...
Tommy,

Sounds like a new headtube...but post a pic.

All the best,


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 2:12 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:35 pm
Posts: 8423
Location: The desolate flats of Cambridgeshire
Just looked through your other posts and see its a steel frame, it is fixable, even if it means putting a new head tube on.


As an idea http://www.bobjacksoncycles.co.uk/repairs_pl.php and you can be sure if you go with Jacksons it'll be a great job.

Oh dont forget to factor in the cost of a respray, again Bob Jacksons resprays are excellent, but powder coating is usually a cheaper option.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 2:39 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2012 2:08 pm
Posts: 2185
Location: Shrewsbury
Best to post a photo, but there's a good chance it can be welded, although you'll still need paint :(

Quite unusual to crack at the headtube without having suffered any impact damage, which I assume there wasn't. If its metal fatigue it would be worth having the whole frame checked over.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:44 pm 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
Posts: 8209
Location: New Forest, UK
If it is 531 you cannot weld it, but a fillet brazed repair should be possible. If it is lugged, then a new head tube can be let in.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 10:12 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:05 pm
Posts: 32
If you need to weld it it will have to be 'TIG' welded because 'MIG' welding will just blow holes in the tube. I've just had a frame welded by a local exhaust manufacturer.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 8:54 am 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2012 2:08 pm
Posts: 2185
Location: Shrewsbury
hamster wrote:
If it is 531 you cannot weld it, but a fillet brazed repair should be possible. If it is lugged, then a new head tube can be let in.


It can be welded, you just need someone who's good with a torch. We have a guy at work who welded a 1" crack in a 531 tube for me, he drilled a hole at each end then used A15 wire. Grind it back down and its all but invisible. He says the trick is to be quick and not get the metal to hot.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 9:09 am 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
Posts: 8209
Location: New Forest, UK
See here:
http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/bu ... lders.html

"Alloy steels such as Reynolds 531 are known to become what in the UK is known as 'hot-short' at higher temperatures, that is, they can become brittle and break up. Anyone who has tried to remove a stubborn bent tube from a lug will know this problem. Presumably the temperature required for fusion welding could cause the hot-short phenomenon."

The main reason why 531 disappeared from production bikes was that it couldn't be TIG welded, unlike the majority of frames made in Taiwan. It is a Manganese-Molybdenum alloy no Chrome-Molybdenum. Reynolds instead introduced 520 and 525, which can be welded.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 

All times are UTC [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: firedfromthecircus, james_from_stoke, Nicktid and 25 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

About Us

Follow Retrobike

Other cool stuff

All content © 2005-2015 Retrobike unless otherwise stated.
Cookies Policy.
bikedeals - the best bike deals in one place
FatCOGS - Fat Chance Owner's Group

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group