bottom bracket replacement Peugot Equipe (1984?)

Hi,

My Dad recovered my old Peugot Equip from t'garage for me and I have since, cleaned, replaced most parts, but now need to

1. replace bottom bracket because it is loose. Please could someone advise on what I'd need to take the old one out, (I have had the pedals off already) I believe I need a "Bike Bottom bracket Lockring remover Tool" to apply to the slotted ring that is aligned against the frame. Is this the only "nut" that requires loosening to get the bracket out and tightening to fit the bracket in? Which way should I turn to loosen? clockwise or counter clockwise.

2. sort the gear change, this bike has levers on the down frame, one on each side, the lever for the rear sprocket is fine, but the front sprocket....it is by default (no tension) on the inner sprocket and has to be pulled back to get chain onto the outer sprocket, however, the chain guide returns to the (no tension) position thus the chain returns to the inner sprocket, is there a reason why this is occurring and what is the solution?

many thanks

I had one of those

Sounds interesting - is yours the same as my old one: red in colour? blue stickers? I loved my Peugeot Equipe!

As for bottom bracket removal you're right, a lockring spanner should get the lockring off, and a spanner (17mm?) should engage with the flats on the bit that's still left in the frame. A girt great 15" chinese cheapo adjustable spanner (from a surplus store near you!) should get the other side off (left hand thread remember, so undo it as if you were tightening it).

I say 'should' come off because 25 years later it all might be a bit stiff! First stage is to soak it in penetrating oil for a while. If that fails move to second stage and clamp the cup(s) in the biggest workshop bench vice you can find, and use the whole bike as a lever to undo it. Third stage is to take it to an engineering shop to have some one metre long pieces of scrap metal bar welded on to the cups for even more brut force...

...good luck!

thank you for your response, I believe it is the same as yours from the description you gave, I have posted a photo below, it is pretty beat up, but looks ok, my main gripe is the lack of braking strength compared to my specialised (with discs).



The lock ring below, you stated that the other side as left hand thread, what about the lock ring, please could you confirm? and the nut that is inside the lock ring.



Thanks again.

You will need a c spanner to get that ring off. Normal threads on that side iirc.

It sounds like this isn't enough friction on the lever, tighten the screw on the lever - should sort it.

If its been in storage for a long time I would grease the headset and hubs. The brakes shouldn't be that bad - lube up the cables and maybe look into changing the brake blocks - they will be all dried up by now I would think.

thanks, for the info, i will tighten the lever, that sounds like a likely solution. Even with new blocks the brakes are weak(er), I will have to anticipate junctions a bit more than usual with this bike :/

Solvol autosol for the weinmann brakes and levers and hubs makes them come up nicely

Got any plans for it?

yea, cycling to work, i usually ride the mtb, but fancy something with less rolling resistance, and general cycling around the Kent countryside

I'd stick a decent set of calipers and aero levers on it if you're going to use it and aren't too worried about originality - makes a difference. Just having quick release calipers makes it worth it I reckon. Set of old 105s or something.

mjdlean":1v7xm5nx said:

Solvol autosol

Click to expand...

amazing stuff

Talking about brakes, is it me or are the brake cables about 2 feet too long as they go over the handlebars..........look like a whip ariel LOL

single pivit brakes are pretty much inferior to more modern dual pivot jobbies, never use the suicide levers either LOL As mentioned some cheap shimano 105's with aero levers would work much better

Shaun