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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 11:34 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2011 2:51 pm
Posts: 1082
Location: Brighton. UK.
I've a TT build on the go and want to tie and solder the spokes. I've found that the wire is 'beekeepers wire' I don't want 60m of it though! Is there another supply in smaller quantities? is there another wire I can use? guitar wire ?? :oops:
Cheers.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 11:51 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 8247
Location: Cumbria
The wire isn't important, it's if it can cope with low temp solder. We used to use copper wire in the 70's :)

Shaun


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 9:05 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:31 pm
Posts: 741
I bet you can buy shorter bits from craft shops.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 9:39 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:07 pm
Posts: 1324
Location: Cotswolds
Rip the copper core from a bit of suitable electrical cable, and use corrosive flux (Bakers?). You do not want wire that has been laquered.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:01 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2011 2:51 pm
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Location: Brighton. UK.
Excellent, thanks for the replies. I didn't realise the wire wasn't too important so that opens up lots of possibilities with copper wire :wink:
Shawn.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:55 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
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Location: Cumbria
I forgot the tip about using non-lacquered coper wire........that rules out electrical windings like dynamo's etc where the wire is lacquered. 13 am non-braided would be fine.

Copper wire is good as it has no "memory" and stays put when you wrap it.

One way is to start the wire flat against the spokes at the join and wrap the wire over it to cover the first loose end if possible try and tuck the last loose end under the gap where the spokes cross...............if that makes sense.

Set aside quite a bit of time as I found it took ages...I used to tie all the spokes and then solder. Other people tied and then soldered as they went, lobbing water at the solder to prevent burning fingers......to much water flying about for me.

I was glad when it went out of fashion apart from Track wheels :D

Shaun


Shaun


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 11:30 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
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Location: Cumbria
Just thought..what style were you going for ? ball of wool or a more refined bow tie type effect ?

Shaun


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 11:44 am 
Old School Hero

Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 11:24 am
Posts: 194
Location: London SW
If you go through the hassle of tying and soldering wire, then you might as well use the DT Proline one. It's not really necessary, so if you do it, it's an act of love, don't scrimp and try to use recycled copper wire or gardening net...


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:18 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2011 2:51 pm
Posts: 1082
Location: Brighton. UK.
Here's my inspiration

http://www.urbanvelo.org/issue11/urbanv ... 70-71.html

The only reason I'm going to the hassle of this is I have a TT bike which is mostly nos and will only see a few dry miles now and again. In my opinion the bike is quite special and this little detail would be right at home :wink:

Reply noted about the proline wire, thanks :wink:

Shawn.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:38 pm 
rBoTM Winner
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:28 pm
Posts: 3104
Location: Mansfield Woodhouse, Nott's.
I remember very well my first ever set of 'real' racing wheels which at the time
i had no idea at the time what the wired up bits were for on my wheels so after
many hours of snipping/cutting of the stupid looking wire i finally got it all off the
spokes, then i had the job of polishing up the wheels which i enjoyed thoroughly
a few weeks later i met the chap who i got the wheels from and he was outraged
because i had removed the wire and he then explained what 'tie and solder' did :oops:


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