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 Post subject: New retro/modern wheels!
PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 3:03 pm 
Gold Trader
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I finally got my new wheels built! I've had the parts for at least 6 months, but never had time to get them done. Despite thinking I'd corrected the spoking when I built them, the front has the valve hole lined up incorrectly between non-parallel spokes, I only just noticed while putting the tubs on :evil: So I might well relace it, just because I'd always be thinking it was 'wrong'. Apart from that, I'm well chuffed! I've wanted a set of wheels like this for years, and now that I've got them they'll be doing double duty on my modern carbon bike and on my latest retro project. So anyway, while not 100% strictly retro (only the rims are actually earlier than 98 ), I think the overall look is pretty retro, unless we're in flanders/roubaix week!

So here they are: NOS mavic GP4 rims, laced 2x front /3x rear with DT Comps to NOS 2006 record 10s hubs, and fitted with a set of Veloflex Roubaix 24mm tubs. The tubs are only dry fitted to stretch them (and take some pics!), but I can't wait to get them glued and go for a ride. might have to sort out the valve hole placement first though...

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 3:20 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2011 11:36 pm
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Location: Liverpool
Hi Foz, nice looking set of wheels there buddy :-) I'm very curious to know what you mean by this " the front has the valve hole lined up incorrectly between non-parallel spokes " All I can see is that you've incorrectly aligned the valve itself on the rim, but the above intrigues me as an ever learning wheel builder ? Never thought this was possible, "the valve hole is the valve hole and can't be in the wrong place :shock: ..... can it ?" 2 cross, 3 cross, radial, partial radial, it makes no difference, all spokes self align (assuming you start from the correct hole & side with the correct length)

Later buddy, yours Laz.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 3:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:49 pm
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Laz, the general consensus, among wheel builders, is that the valve hole should go where there are two spokes parallel. You can see on the rear it is in the right place, but the front is wrong. It's purely an asthetics thing, but it would wind me up no end. It makes no difference to the strength or performance of the wheel.

PS nice wheels!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 3:32 pm 
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Laz, exactly what tiermat said. the front valve isn't exactly straight I know, but it's not as bad as the photo makes it appear (I find that stretching tubs on for the first time is always a bit hard, making it more difficult to keep the valve straight). For the valve to be in the 'correct' place, imagine that it was one spoke hole to the right in the first pic, where the 'e' of veloflex is. then it would be between parallel spokes. it is just an aesthetics thing, although it can be easier to get to the valve if it is between parallel spokes. Obviously, I can't just move the valve, so I have to relace one side of the wheel (only one side since in the first pic, the spoke just to the left of the valve is a parallel spoke, it's the one on the right that isn't. it isn't a big job, although who know how long it will take me to get it done, since building them the first time has taken 6 months....

Andy


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 5:10 pm 
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Location: Cumbria
Drill new valve hole one place to the right :D Sorted.....

Just joking LOL


Shaun


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 10:42 pm 
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Ha Ha you're a funny man Shaun.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 7:41 am 
Old School Hero

Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 11:24 am
Posts: 194
Location: London SW
tiermat wrote:
Laz, the general consensus, among wheel builders, is that the valve hole should go where there are two spokes parallel. You can see on the rear it is in the right place, but the front is wrong. It's purely an asthetics thing, but it would wind me up no end. It makes no difference to the strength or performance of the wheel.

PS nice wheels!


Yes, it is a combination of aesthetics and necessity to keep the area clear for the valve in highly congested 36/40 spokes wheels.
However, other patterns improve slightly the wheel balance at high speed, especially if using those modern long valves on light wheelsets.

Don't aks me why... just an empirical observation...

Re. these wheels, I prefer to build the pulling spokes "head in", at least on the rear drive side, but again, it does not make a big difference.
Have you punched the spoke heads in place?
The hubs are just beautiful


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 9:07 am 
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The spoke heads have all been tapped into place, it was actually a necessity, especially on the rear wheel, as there was a very tight fit for the spokes in the holes. the holes are 2.4mm according to campagnolo, and the spokes 2.0 according to DT, but not one of them just dropped through the hole easily like you would expect.

As for the pulling spokes, well I 've always done it this way (not that I'm a master wheelbuilder or anything!). I don't think it makes much difference, but i think the theory is that having the pulling spokes heads out means that at the final cross, the pulling spoke is on the outside. This will pull the spoke intersection inwards when applying lots of torque, for example climbing in the largest sprocket, which is supposed to pull the spokes away from the rear mech, not outwards and into the mech. I don't think it really matters though, I've just always done it this way and use the same method each time. The front lacing is still really annoying me though, I'm going to have to do it again or I won't be happy...


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 10:02 am 
Old School Hero

Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 11:24 am
Posts: 194
Location: London SW
foz wrote:
The spoke heads have all been tapped into place, it was actually a necessity, especially on the rear wheel, as there was a very tight fit for the spokes in the holes. the holes are 2.4mm according to campagnolo, and the spokes 2.0 according to DT, but not one of them just dropped through the hole easily like you would expect.

As for the pulling spokes, well I 've always done it this way (not that I'm a master wheelbuilder or anything!). I don't think it makes much difference, but i think the theory is that having the pulling spokes heads out means that at the final cross, the pulling spoke is on the outside. This will pull the spoke intersection inwards when applying lots of torque, for example climbing in the largest sprocket, which is supposed to pull the spokes away from the rear mech, not outwards and into the mech. I don't think it really matters though, I've just always done it this way and use the same method each time. The front lacing is still really annoying me though, I'm going to have to do it again or I won't be happy...


Let me know how these Veloflex behave on the cobbles. I had a set of Vittoria gum walled that got thrashed (sidewall scuffs down to the carcass) after a couple of sections on the stones... I since got the same tubs with black walls and no problems at all

See you at the Retroronde next year then... :wink:


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