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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 3:26 pm 
Newbie

Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2012 11:21 am
Posts: 7
Location: UK
fo105 - Difficult to tell from your photos - are the chainstays round or oval in section?

(in some shots they look oval, round in others...)

Been trying to piece together info from the net on the various Columbus tube characteristics, in order to get a better understanding of my own Paganini.

[Q for OP / forum - don't want to hijack this thread, but seems relevant as it is Paganini / Columbus related. Am I better starting a new thread?]


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 4:41 pm 
Newbie

Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2012 11:21 am
Posts: 7
Location: UK
I feel like I am getting somewhere regarding my own Paganini...

... through a combination of internet research and comparison / measurement of the tubes.

The seat post is 27.2 - I originally thought it might be 27.2 or 27.4

Top tube = 28.8
Seat tube = 28.8
Downtube = 32
Chainstays = 29.8 / 19.9 oval section

So, allowing for a bit of measurement error / paint, definately an oversize tubeset.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 3:23 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:08 pm
Posts: 616
Location: London
ugo.santalucia wrote:
Get it resprayed, get some nice new decals (try velocals in USA), stick a new SLX decal and it will be SLX.
In fairness, after 20-30 years they are what you want them to be


Really? Shouldn't a restoration be as accurate and true to the original as possible. After 20-30 years a frame is still made from what it was made of 20-30 years ago.


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 Post subject: Paganini
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 6:34 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:51 pm
Posts: 17
Location: California
Hi Guys, I just posted my late '80s Paganini Mistral the other day (see my album: Tim Doland). My paint is MUCH better and original with original artwork. Bought it on ebay from Netherlands, frameset only. Yes, it has Gipiemme drop outs, chrome stays and Columbus tubing and chrome fork (which need rechroming). I can get more detailed photos if you want. It looks like yours might have been a cheap repaint (note the "fading blue to white). Mine is pearl blue fading to white from top to bottom and front to back! yours shows like an amature with a can did it (I'm not trying to put you off). With care, you can make something beautiful out of it and it will be a great ride! I chose Campy and Cinelli components for most of the restoration but I built my own wheels out of prefference (won't go into that). Since this is my rider, I chose to use Campy Chorus because data on these bikes is a real stretch! I thought the French bikes were bad. The Columbus decal says "Tretubi" & "Aelle". The RR brake cable guide is through the top tube and recessed, not out like yours. Leads me to believe it is earlier than '87. Mine is "suspected to be very late '80s or early '90s. Hope that helps. BTW, all the other artwork appears to be silk screen. there are no edges around the artwork. Tim


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:00 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:51 pm
Posts: 17
Location: California
I'll jump in on this one. I believe if you are planning to keep and ride a restored vintage bike, you should be as accurate as possible. That is to say, you can have the look and..... the luxury of modern upgrades. I personally have chrippled hands, so you will notice I used bar-end shifters on my Paganini Mistral (they ARE Campy). I also used a Campy Chorus Groupo with a 9spd crank and derailleurs. She's set-up with a 7spd rear cassette but I will have a new Miche Shimano set on the Friday. I hae a 10spd chain on now and it shifts like butter even as a 7spd. Opps, you caught the Shimano part. :oops: Yes, I chose because of the availability of cog combinations. The rims are Mavic Open Pros, they're slick. :lol: The 10 spd shifters are bieng used in the "friction" mode. If you are restoring for your own stable, then by all means, be period correct and enjoy your work. Either way, it will give you and others who see your bike great pleasure! If I retire my Paganini, it will be returned to period correct. I don't believe I'll ever retire it!

Ride on and take time to enjoy the view. Tim


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:18 am 
Old School Hero

Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 11:24 am
Posts: 194
Location: London SW
grilla wrote:
ugo.santalucia wrote:
Get it resprayed, get some nice new decals (try velocals in USA), stick a new SLX decal and it will be SLX.
In fairness, after 20-30 years they are what you want them to be


Really? Shouldn't a restoration be as accurate and true to the original as possible. After 20-30 years a frame is still made from what it was made of 20-30 years ago.


If you can afford it...

Otherwise, there is nothing wrong in sticking whatever decal on that pleases the owner's eye. You have a Dolan with a Colnago Master decal? Fine by me...
I challenge you to spot the ride quality differences between various Columbus and Reynolds steels... it's all in the head, a 10 PSI difference in tyre pressure will make a world of difference compared to a different type of steel.
Also, should I risk my life using crap Weinmann brakes or maybe upgrade to something that actually works?
I find it exciting that so many people want those ride old frames, instead of throwing them in a skip, I leave criticism to the old farts who believe there is only one way to do things right.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 2:48 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:51 pm
Posts: 17
Location: California
WELL SAID! Thank you. Tim Doland :lol:


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