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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:47 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 5:59 pm
Posts: 291
Location: Gloucester
Can this be done by a 'cut and shut' method with a new piece of tube?

Or is it always with these silly adaptors.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 8:54 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:49 pm
Posts: 276
Depends what you mean, if you mean to convert a bike frame (and headset) then nothing needs doing, just replace the headset. If you have enough steerer on the forks you can even re-use them.

If you are talking about forks then just use them as is, the threaded part will be covered by the stem/spacers.

HTH


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:52 am 
Old School Hero

Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2012 5:33 pm
Posts: 208
Location: NW Kent
Dave Yates charges £75 to rework the steerer for A head:

http://www.daveyatescycles.co.uk/custom ... ces-52.php

Dont' know if that is a whole new steerer or wether he internally sleeves and whaks on a new length of steerer...


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 5:07 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:31 pm
Posts: 740
You can buy 1" threadless forks. Seen all sorts.
It was suggested to me that a threaded fork used with a threadless type stem might be weak. On the threaded version the thread is strengthened by the headset and none is exposed. Its very short as well. To use it threadless you would need a longer fork column of course with more leverage at the point where the fork leaves the headset. I have run a 1" threaded fork with a 1 1/8th stem and a shim that comes with those nasty adaptors between them. It was alloy and did take on the thread and you could argue supported the threaded area more as it filled the grooves.
As you need a new fork to run threadless anyway just get a 1" threadless


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 Post subject: .
PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 7:06 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 5:59 pm
Posts: 291
Location: Gloucester
Thanks guys...it will be a threaded steerer conversion to keep the original forks.

Will have to discuss it with Brian Rourke when the frame turns up...would like it to remain all steel rather than drop in a set of carbons.

I bought this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280898553863? ... 1439.l2649

Whoops...


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 8:43 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:31 pm
Posts: 740
Easy then. you need some sort of adaptor that fits those forks like a quill stem but is just round like an Ahead stem. Clamp on the new stem and you are done.


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 Post subject: Re: .
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:54 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2010 10:12 am
Posts: 862
Location: wiltshire
Way2many wrote:
Thanks guys...it will be a threaded steerer conversion to keep the original forks.

Will have to discuss it with Brian Rourke when the frame turns up...would like it to remain all steel rather than drop in a set of carbons.

I bought this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280898553863? ... 1439.l2649

Whoops...


NICE! i nearly hit the buy now on that but realised the top tube was too long. ARSE!
look forward to seeing it built up.
I'm with you on the threadless option - seeing how cheap the frame was it may be worth getting them converted (but then you have to get the forks repainted too so add on another 40 odd quid...)
just had another look - the chrome will probably get damaged when the steerer is replaced so re chroming may cost a fair bit more :shock:


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 11:57 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 5:59 pm
Posts: 291
Location: Gloucester
Hopefully pick this up tomorrow...to be compared to my custom 653, but I am rather 'long in the arms' so should be fine for me.

If I lose some of the chrome on the tops of the forks i'll get them half painted...just ned to decide on a colour and scheme?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:33 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2007 2:04 pm
Posts: 3364
Location: Completely in the dark, thanks to me good mate Terry....
mattsccm wrote:
You can buy 1" threadless forks. Seen all sorts.
It was suggested to me that a threaded fork used with a threadless type stem might be weak. On the threaded version the thread is strengthened by the headset and none is exposed. Its very short as well. To use it threadless you would need a longer fork column of course with more leverage at the point where the fork leaves the headset. I have run a 1" threaded fork with a 1 1/8th stem and a shim that comes with those nasty adaptors between them. It was alloy and did take on the thread and you could argue supported the threaded area more as it filled the grooves.
As you need a new fork to run threadless anyway just get a 1" threadless


^^^^^^^

What he said. There are "stress riser" issues relating to trying to use the redundant threaded portion to clamp an Aheadset-pattern stem on to.

David


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