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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 10:09 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:29 pm
Posts: 554
Location: Sheffield
You want a standard 12mm cone spanner for the "inner" of the two nuts. If you really don't want to get one, fine nosed pliers can be used to follow Shaun's advice above (but the cone spanner is much better). As for how tight: you want the calipers to spring open easily (when there is no cable in), but not to have any play in them (no backwards and forwards movement when you apply the brakes and try to rock the bike backwards and forwards). I also use the "overtighten and slacken off" approach: tighten with the outer nut, slacken with the inner (holding the outer still as well).

If your version are like the ones here:
http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx? ... a4831605f5
then you are (relatively speaking) in luck. There is a small hex fitting at the end of the spindle that you use to centre the brakes. Not sure what size it is off the top of my head, but about 4mm IIRC. You can use a small socket wrench (the black plastic sleeve just slides off if necessary). Care is needed, as they are easily stripped. I've not seen square ended ones, but that doesn't mean they don't exist...

I always smear a little light grease on the spindle, washers and spring when reassembling.

Nick


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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 5:43 pm 
rBoTM Winner
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:28 pm
Posts: 3104
Location: Mansfield Woodhouse, Nott's.
gregs656 wrote:
Always take pictures before you start taking things apart


This is a good tip by the way ! Also putting the brake parts in numbered/labelled cheap sandwich tubs [front brake] -[rear brake]


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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:49 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:51 am
Posts: 254
nammonk wrote:
You want a standard 12mm cone spanner for the "inner" of the two nuts. If you really don't want to get one, fine nosed pliers can be used to follow Shaun's advice above (but the cone spanner is much better). As for how tight: you want the calipers to spring open easily (when there is no cable in), but not to have any play in them (no backwards and forwards movement when you apply the brakes and try to rock the bike backwards and forwards). I also use the "overtighten and slacken off" approach: tighten with the outer nut, slacken with the inner (holding the outer still as well).

If your version are like the ones here:
http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx? ... a4831605f5
then you are (relatively speaking) in luck. There is a small hex fitting at the end of the spindle that you use to centre the brakes. Not sure what size it is off the top of my head, but about 4mm IIRC. You can use a small socket wrench (the black plastic sleeve just slides off if necessary). Care is needed, as they are easily stripped. I've not seen square ended ones, but that doesn't mean they don't exist...

I always smear a little light grease on the spindle, washers and spring when reassembling.

Nick


Thanks nick, you are quite right the ends of the shafts are hex not square, I'll have to get myself a smaller set of sockets. They are the same as in your link.

I have another set to overhaul also, so more to practice on :)


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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 8:08 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:51 am
Posts: 254
Ian Raleigh wrote:
gregs656 wrote:
Always take pictures before you start taking things apart


This is a good tip by the way ! Also putting the brake parts in numbered/labelled cheap sandwich tubs [front brake] -[rear brake]


That is something I might try, thanks


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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 8:33 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Thu May 03, 2012 7:56 pm
Posts: 264
Another one is if you are removing parts, put the bolts back in so you can't get mixed up over what bolts on what, or loose them.

If you find your way half way through a job, and know you're not going to be able to get back to it - rebuilding it there and then and stripping it down again when ever you next get a chance is IMO better than walking away from pieces - not appropriate for everything but for small things it's worth the extra hassle.


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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 8:39 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 8247
Location: Cumbria
The design of the spindle on the velobase link is a bit more modern than mine :D

Shaun


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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 10:37 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 8247
Location: Cumbria
If all else fails get the brakes brazed to the frame............here's a Hilary stone example but I have a Bob Jackson just like it LOL

Image


Shaun


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 10:54 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:51 am
Posts: 254
Midlife wrote:
If all else fails get the brakes brazed to the frame............here's a Hilary stone example but I have a Bob Jackson just like it LOL

Image


Shaun


Well that would solve the problem :)


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 11:01 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 8247
Location: Cumbria
My TT bike from the 70's has brazed on Weinmann 500's and the callipers are drilled to non existence....by a well known frame builder LOL

Pull hard on the brakes and the callipers would fall apart :)

Back in my day The TT crowd "braked" for the half way turn by lifting the head from the bars hoping the extra drag would slow them down LOL
[img]
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QLSEIDkkddE/T ... ngers2.jpg
[/img]


Shaun


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 11:33 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:51 am
Posts: 254
With my back, if I took that position I'd never get up straight again :D


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