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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 4:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 5:21 pm
Posts: 589
Tel wrote:
Here are some of my previous work:

Athena Polished and non polished:

CDA

Ironically I have just the same cranksets polished and engraved waiting to be listied for sale. Actually they're the two unpolished cranksets in the pictures above.

I also have 1 set of C-Record polished and engraved and one set polished awaiting engraving.


I've been reading up on polishing but wondered how to keep the logos, your post suggests you've had them engraved, is this right?

EDIT Ignore this post, it crossed with your others.


Last edited by ScillySuffolk on Fri May 25, 2012 5:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 4:59 pm 
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If you're interested in polishing, this page will make interesting reading, although the author is stateside, so not all the products he mentions are readily available here.

I've not tried his method, so can't comment on how effective it is.


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 5:16 pm 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:15 pm
Posts: 659
Location: Aberdeenshire
Hello stedlocks,

That's a great job you've done there.

I do admire someone taking the time to do stuff like that.

I took on a similar task with a MTB, so can appriciate the work involved. I also found it to be therapuitic; I used to work away on stuff when I was walking the dog.

May not be of interest, but here you go:
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... highlight=


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 10:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:31 pm
Posts: 740
Why not buy caustic soda crystals. You can mix it super strong if you want. I have done seat pins in a minute or two with a tooth brush.
At a weaker mix it is great for cleaning hands if you want to go from stripping a gear box to you own wedding. Apply E45 cream afterwards.


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 8:16 am 
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Blimey ally......!
Some great work there.......all round :0)

One of my favourite resto mtbs too.

I have cheated with a bench grinder/polisher though.......:0)


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 8:19 am 
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Also, with the sisal mop and grey cutting compound, you don't need to use caustic soda......I found this out after!
I have a few more bits awaiting final polishing tonight....pictures up later after I've been to the zoo today!


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 5:46 pm 
rBoTM Winner
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Location: Mansfield Woodhouse, Nott's.
Hope you don't mind me putting this up ''stedlocks'' i'll delete it if needs be :D

After getting my old Raleigh Panasonic back on the road and the bike being in the loft some fifteen years
the anodising on my cranks looked terrible were my previous toe-straps had rubbed the anodising off
so it was out with the wet n dry paper and tin of Brasso, more work is needed using this method than using oven cleaners.

Many years ago i had a good talk with Ian Cammish and he said polished parts go through the air faster...lol


Image


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 6:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2008 12:31 am
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Location: London
I'm so used to seeing parts in their original anodising or bare polished alu finish that parts with anodising removed look weird.

Eg, non-anodised N/S Rec seatpins look right whilst de-anodised N/S/C Rec cranks look odd, especially Campagnolo non-anodised cranks with anodised rings.

But at the same time, non-anodised cranks like the Stronglight 49D with non-anodised TA rings look right and proper.


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 7:18 pm 
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Some lovely work there Ian.......!
How do you guys get into the little recesses in the cut outs and around the base of the arm on the drive side crank?

I'm struggling to get a good angle to get to it!


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 11:14 am 
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stedlocks wrote:
I used 'the polishing shop'.co.uk...

Thanks for the recommendation: very helpful and didn't try and flog the most expensive kit to me.

Can't wait to start shining stuff up!


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